I am always intrigued by a restaurant that gets very mixed reviews. In the case of Tora Sushi Lounge, I’ve talked to people who love it, while others say it’s horrible. Recently, one friend, who claims he doesn’t like sushi, went with a group of friends and tried a variety of different dishes. “Everything was really good,” he exclaimed in surprise.

It is fair to say that since it first opened in 2006, Tora Sushi has made great strides in the quality of its food, but the service could still stand improvement. During a recent visit, our waiter couldn’t understand that we wanted to start with appetizers and move through several different courses. Instead, everything we ordered appeared at once. He was friendly, but not able to answer many of my questions regarding the food or beverages. When the service reaches the high standard of the food, I will consider giving Tora Sushi a higher rating.

For years, I’ve lamented the fact that there were no sushi bars on the North Coast. Our only option was the excellent sushi served once a week at the Shoalwater Restaurant in Seaview, Wash.

When Melo Wifrano appeared in front of the Seaside City Council in July 2006 to apply for a liquor license, he stated that he was bringing a new business to Seaside and hoped the public would enjoy the restaurant. Many were skeptical. Could the huge space, with open duct work and massive wooden beams that formerly housed Kalypso Restaurant, be transformed into a sushi bar? Typically, sushi bars are small and intimate. And many wondered if locals and tourists would support the cuisine. Two years later, Tora Sushi has developed a following, and I am one of its fans.

In addition to now offering a full sushi bar, the wide-ranging menu of Japanese food includes teriyaki and tempura, sukiyaki, amiyaki and a selection of udon noodle dishes. The menu boasts 25 varieties of a la carte sushi and a nice selection of sashimi, plus a number of special house rolls.

For those not familiar with sushi and sashimi, the combination platter, filled with a sampling of seafood and California rolls, is a great introduction. In traditions that date back to the early 1600s in Japan, there are different varieties of sushi, made with rice seasoned with rice vinegar, salt and sugar. Nigiri-sushi is slices of raw fish on top of small, hand-formed pads of rice. Maki-sushi includes a variety of sliced rolls, made with sushi rice (and often dried seaweed called nori) rolled around a variety of fillings, then sliced into bite-sized pieces. Tora’s Rose Roll, filled with shrimp, crab, cucumber and avocado and topped with mildly spicy tuna, is a customer favorite. Others are filled with eel, soft-shelled crab, scallops and more. Hand rolls, wrapped in a cone-shaped sheet of nori, feature the same fillings and are meant to be eaten like one would eat an ice cream cone.

Recently, a platter of sushi and sashimi was sparkling fresh. Layered with ribbons of fat, the tangerine-colored salmon was fruity, with a rich, buttery texture. Bright, rosy tuna was deep flavored and meaty, while yellow tail tuna was lighter, tasting at once of woodsy mushrooms and the sea. The shrimp nigiri was so sweet and clean, it could have been dessert.

California rolls and Tora’s Rose Rolls, both wrapped in sesame seed-studded sushi rice, were delicious. I know it’s an American thing, but I like them dipped in soy sauce and wasabi (an often green-colored paste with a pungent, horseradish-like kick). From the appetizer list, black cod, marinated in miso paste and broiled until golden, was superb. Black cod is one of my favorite fish. This was silky and perfectly cooked, so that flakes slid apart at the touch of a chopstick. Fried calamari was not so successful. I’m a fan of tiny rings of squid (with their crispy tentacles.) This was French-fry cut fillets of squid, deep fried and served with a ponzu-based dipping sauce that rendered them bitter.

At a nearby table, a woman waiting for her take-out order was enjoying a beautiful platter of mayo-baked oysters. Being an oyster lover, I had to ask her how they were. “Fantastic,” she replied. “I often come here just for the oysters.” That was enough. I had to try them. A few minutes later, they arrived. Three plump oysters, baked in their roasted shells, were glistening under a sweet amber-colored sauce. They were delicious, but not what I was expecting. Combined with green onion, mayonnaise and crab, chopped oysters had been packed back into their shells and baked. I will definitely order them again.

With all this feasting going on, and the damp, cold winter lingering, a few bottles of hot saké warmed my spirits. Now it was time for dessert. The offerings? Just three different flavors of plum-sized ice cream balls wrapped in sweet rice paste (not unlike marzipan). Reminiscent of the Creamsicles I enjoyed as a child, the mango ice cream was creamy and refreshing. Tora Sushi Lounge is a welcome addition to the North Coast dining scene.

After 28 years of providing diners with some of the most fabulous food and wine in the Columbia-Pacific region, the Shoalwater Restaurant has closed its doors.

I first met Tony and Anne Kischner about 20 years ago, when I wrote about a Walla Walla winemaker’s dinner they hosted. With food prepared by Anne and chef Cheri Walker, it was a delicious, delightful evening, and one I will never forget.

On a happy note, the Kischners (along with chef Red Pelletier) have moved across the Columbia River to their stunning riverside Bridgewater Bistro. Soon the former Shoalwater will reopen, with David Campiche and Laurie Anderson of the Shelburne Inn at the helm. Their son, Michael Campiche, a highly-trained chef, will oversee the kitchen. Laurie, an accomplished baker, will make breads and desserts. “David,” Laurie says jokingly, “will do everything else.”

Regarding the closure of the Shoalwater, Laurie said, “We would like to acknowledge the Kischners for their contribution – not only to the business and community, but also to the role they and their staff have played in placing Pacific Northwest cuisine on the map.”