When most folks consider ribs, they conjure images of racks of pork simmered in some deep-south-style smoker. Or maybe they think of ribs slow-cooked in a wood-fired oven, or sizzled under an indoor broiler.

Unlikely as it sounds, our area offers all of the above, and a few local eateries have embraced ribs. As a regional comfort food, they may not rate with fish ‘n chips and chicken-fried steak, but ribs are gaining converts throughout the Northwest. Here’s a taste, by no means comprehensive, of the local rib scene.

The Rib House Restaurant577 14th St., Astoria; (503) 325-3132;

11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday; Rating: 2 and 1/2 pigs (out of four)

Chef Bruce McBride – who runs this eatery occupying the downstairs of the Ida Mitchell house, a restored 1896 Victorian – promises the food is free if a customer doesn’t fancy his ribs. It’s an unlikely scenario because McBride’s racks of pork are slow-cooked in a hickory belly smoker where the fire is kept separate from the meat to insure tenderness. A mildly sweet barbecue sauce adds tang. Hickory-flavored baked beans, crunchy chopped-cabbage-and-carrot cole slaw and humongous chunks of cornbread (with honey) are served alongside.

A prodigious portion of ribs and sides (you get to choose among two of the three above-mentioned dishes) costs a measly $7.95, which has got to be Astoria’s best meal deal.

Riverside Bar-B-Que1300 S. Holladay, Seaside; (503) 738-7858

11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sun, Mon, Wed, Thurs; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday, Saturday; Rating: 3 pigs

No one would call Oklahoma the deep south, but its barbecue is otherworldly compared to what’s usually available in the Pacific Northwest. And Oklahoma barbecue – a style that utilizes indirect smoke and a dry rub concocted with about 20 different spices – is the inspiration at this low-slung, pink-and-white restaurant situated between U.S. Highway 101 and the Necanicum River in south Seaside. Gratification begins the minute you pull into the parking lot – the alluring aromas of smoked meats and fish are pervasive. No wonder; two jet-black smokers sit right outside. Inside, throngs of hungry patrons devouring their barbecue, cole slaw and corn muffins appear to be part of the decor. Heck, dining at the Riverside is like participating in a picnic, even though the tables seem too small for the whopping portions coming from the kitchen.

Dry-to-the-touch ribs imbued with spices and seasonings are the real deal, backed up by a mild or zippy sauce. Pull a rib from its rack and the meat literally falls off the bone. Dinner costs $11.95 and features a slew of ribs, cole slaw and a choice of sides such as potatoes au gratin, steamed veggies, baked beans fortified by slices of mild sausage, even mac and cheese.

Kalypso619 Broadway, Seaside; (503) 738-6302

5 to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday; Rating: 3 and 1/2 pigs

Can a comforting meal like ribs be upscale? You bet if the food comes from chef John Nelson’s kitchen at the new Kalypso, a three-month-old bistro-like dinner house that’s coastal-casual rather than swanky, but still decidedly chic. The high open ceiling in this former drugstore (Nelson says the building dates to 1919) is anchored by massive clear-grain fir beams joined with hulking hardware, as if a logger and an iron worker tried to outdo each other. Walls are either colored in soft earth tones or painted with murals by Cannon Beach artist Susie Pastor, and a small bar with a few stools fills a back corner raised a few feet above the usual fray of customers crowding the expansive dining room.

Nelson’s signature babyback ribs are boiled in beer (what kind he didn’t say — porter, perhaps?), brushed with a tangy-sweet barbecue sauce flavor-enhanced by sweet chilies and a splash of hoisin, then finished under the broiler. But ribs aren’t the sole stars of the meal. Dense cornbread stuffing spiked with tomatoes, peppers and andouille sausage is so fine, you’ll be begging for seconds. A lovely plate of greens completes this $16.95 beauty of a feast.

Warren House Pub3301 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach; (503) 436-1130

11:30 a.m. to about 10 p.m. Monday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday; open 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday; Rating: 2 and 1/2 pigs

At the rebuilt historic Warren House (first constructed in 1911), you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the lovely innards – high wainscoting, oak floors, fir-planked tables, an open-beamed ceiling and an impressive river-rock fireplace grace the tidy Craftsman-style interior, split into a dining room and a bar area. Owners Jim Oyala and Ken Campbell transformed the ramshackle former residence (all that remains from the first Warren House is an entry door) into an original: the Oregon coast’s take on a British pub. And in the pub tradition, this place offers lots of quality quaffs, thanks to Bill’s Tavern & Brewhouse brewer Jack Harris, whose beers are featured.

Warren House showcases a full menu, too, not just a few bar snacks. And the food is more interesting than at Bill’s, also owned by Oyala and Campbell. Ribs are smoked out back (one of the wonderful aromas that permeate the south end of Cannon Beach) and glazed with a pleasingly smoky sauce before enduring a short stint under the broiler, which may or may not be necessary. Rather than slathered over the ribs, most of the sauce is served alongside and lends some nice bite to the accompanying spuds mashed with garlic. A full rack, potatoes and salad costs $17.50.

Clark’s264 E. Third St., Cannon Beach; (503) 436-8944

11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (approx.) Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (approx.) Friday, Saturday (ribs served Thursday evening only); Rating: 3 pigs

On a bracing autumn evening, Clark’s affords welcoming warmth, and not only because of the two-sided gas fireplace. Walls and floors are finished with eye-appealing clear-grained fir and cedar, and stout wooden pillars frame the bar. Although spacious and often crowded, this watering-hole-with-restaurant radiates a pleasing hum of activity that is rarely raucous. Sometimes it feels as intimate as the town’s living room, considering the high percentage of local clientele.

Ribs are baked in a wood-fired oven, visible behind the serving counter fronting the open kitchen. The smoky taste marries perfectly with a yummy sauce redolent of apples or some such fruit (our server wouldn’t say). A half rack with a sizable order of decent fries and a small bowl of cole slaw fetches $9.95. But darn it all! Clark’s ribs are served only on Thursday evenings.

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103 or phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com