CANNON BEACH – Downtown in back of Hemlock Street is a warren of new shops, a maze, really, that can feel disorienting. Enter from the sidewalk and this cedar-shaked and shingled beehive called The Village immediately swallows you up. Step one way, there’s Bead Man; turn the other direction and see Rain N Shine. Continue on the curvy cement sidewalk and you’ll end at Cafe Acajou, Cannon Beach’s newest restaurant and already a player among the edgy new eateries sprouting up in this tony tourist town.

How hip is Acajou? First off, consider the name, which, we’re told, means mahogany in French and, when spoken, falls off the lips like some secret password into the land of cool. Vichyssoise, that creamy and urban-trendy, French-inspired, potato-leek soup that shows up on local menus about as often as escargots, might appear on the specials board – and if you order it, be sure to pronounce the “z” sound at the end like the French do, lest a savvy server, with a flip of her fashionable locks, instantly judge you unsophisticated.

An Acajou display case might contain everything from a ready-to-heat chicken pot pie or a bowl of comforting mac ‘n’ cheese to a hunk of prosciutto that fetches upwards of $22 a pound. The sandwich lineup includes an English cheddar and apple chutney concoction and the bottled beer selection sources from Bend to Boston. And forget salt and pepper shakers; here you grind your own – miniature salt and pepper mills grace every table.

OK, so the two-month-old Acajou, billed as a European-style cafe and deli (think Gower St. Bistro, a few blocks south), oozes style and savoir-faire. Does the food follow suit?

Mostly. True, portions are small, but quality is high. None are cooked here, but big-flavor meats – roast beef or chicken, applewood-smoked bacon, Black Forest ham, turkey breast, the aforementioned prosciutto – play starring roles in excellent sandwiches also layered with salad greens, apple slices, glazed onions and marinated cherry peppers, among other delights. Breads are from Grand Central Baking Company in Portland, an outfit that, frankly, produces breads superior to anything Cannon Beach bakeries sell.

The Autostrada panini, for example, is built with provolone and a quartet of meats including super thin cuts of the prosciutto, which lend a salty tang. Would that there be more substance between this sandwich’s slices of focaccia. Same for the English cheddar and apple chutney sandwich on Campagnolo, a fine Grand Central bread named after the Italian bicycle parts company. “This is wonderful, but I wish it had more cheese,” a dining companion opined. Since this was a take-out order, she added a slice of mozzarella at home and called it good. I feasted on her portion of grated carrot salad, which came laced with raisins and chopped celery and freshened with a light vinaigrette.

Acajou has a light and airy interior decorated in mellow earth tones. An inviting display showcases high-end meats and cheeses (prosciutto, $22.70 lb., Emmental, $14.25 lb.); another features pastries, desserts and special entrees such as lasagna and mac ‘n’ cheese. Wines, pastas, sauces, balsamic vinegars and other enticing edibles take up wall space. Consider taking home an organic chocolate bar or a jar of Tupelo honey or walnut-sage pesto.

Acajou’s usually bustling serving counter announces the cafe’s growing popularity to drop-ins, who often commandeer one of the tables and linger over an espresso, a cup of splendid and not-too-sweet hot chocolate or an Italian soda, along with more substantial fare such as one of the above-mentioned sandwiches. Also offered are satisfying soups: rarely seen (in these parts) Manhattan clam chowder, minestrone and, recently, a lusty wild mushroom blend thick with the aroma of a coastal forest sprouting chanterelles.

What’s most fun at Acajou is simultaneously dining and soaking in the scene. During a recent afternoon visit, I overheard three women, on holiday and heading down the coast, banter about trips to Europe, Cannon Beach’s gallery scene and the vagaries of area restaurants.

“This is a very odd space, isn’t it?” one commented while motioning down an angular hallway toward the other end of the cafe, which is shaped like an unaligned T. “This is fabulous,” one announced after her initial bite of panini grilled with fontina, provolone and Gruyere cheeses. To a person, they agreed their sandwich portions were just right, proving again that not everybody is concerned about size.

Like so many visitors, the trio appeared to be enthralled by Cannon Beach and, in between noshes, the women discussed shopping strategies for the remainder of the afternoon. Meanwhile, at an adjacent table, an apparently longtime local was sounding a different tune, complaining about what he believed was the over-commercialization of his beloved coastal community. “Just how many shops and restaurants can they cram in this town, anyway?” he asked his dining partner. All three women glanced over his way and smiled.

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103 or phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com