Frites and scoops come to coast
Published 3:21 am Thursday, September 25, 2014
- Lisa and Kevin Malcolm hope to open Frite & Scoop in early October in the space formerly occupied by Wheelhouse Coffee. The shop will offer handcrafted ice cream and Belgian-style fries.
Lisa and Kevin Malcolm moved to Astoria from Seattle without a plan. But the couple let their favorite foods guide them.
And for the North Coast, that will eventually mean Frite & Scoop, a combination of handcrafted ice cream and Belgian-style frites (fries).
“That’s the vision of the place, sweet and salty, hot and cold,” said Lisa, adding that her husband Kevin, a self-taught ice cream wizard, already bought a vintage diner costume like the one he wore in his first job at Whitey’s Ice Cream in Illinois. “He’s super-excited about being an old-timey soda jerk.”
The couple, who arrived in Astoria last spring and bought the former Wheelhouse Coffee at 175 14th St., have been renovating the former coffee shop and teasing people on Frite & Scoop’s Facebook page since August with pictures of their various experiments.
“We’re hoping beyond hope for Oct. 5,” said Lisa, mindful of construction that has pushed back the opening date from Labor Day Weekend, into September and now into fall. They hope to start with ice cream and add the frites in spring.
Meanwhile, though, they’ve been going all out with their recipes. Lisa describes the ice cream flavors as divided among the classical with a twist, including the fresh mint chip ice cream using Belgian Callebaut chocolate and dirt vanilla, using brown instead of white sugar and the couple’s homemade vanilla extract.
More whimsical flavors cater to children, such as one with bubble gum melted into the base and frozen Pop Rocks that activate when eaten. Saturday Market Cartoons channels some of Voodoo Doughnuts’ flair with a mixture of Fruity Pebbles and Crunch Berries.
Flavors like bourbon pecan caramel and Calabrian Chile chocolate, with imported Italian chiles steeped in the base, aim for the adult market.
“For a pint of ice cream, we use 2 grams of chilis,” said Kevin, who makes ice cream on Phil, the couple’s 6-quart ice cream machine named after professional wrester Phil “CM Punk” Brooks – the two are avid professional wrestling fans. “We are so flexible, that I can have inspiration today, and make a batch.”
They’ve been testing the flavors at Street 14 Coffee and among city employees, who they said requested licorice flavors.
While the ice cream could arrive in early October, the Belgian-style frites won’t come until spring, said Lisa. Frite & Scoop secured a supply of white Kennebec potatoes from Charlie’s Produce in Portand.
“What’s different is they’re cooked twice,” said Lisa, describing the par cooking of the frites in advance. “They’ll be shock-fried to order.”
They’ll come in paper cones, with a smaller cone speared in the center and filled dipping sauce, be it soft serve or mayonnaise-based Belgian sauce.
Never ones to take the traditional route, the Malcolms turned to a regional specialty to put their ice cream in: krumkake. They iron and shape the Norwegian waffle cookie into bowls and cones, and melt a Hershey’s Kiss at the bottom as sealant. They’re looking for a local metal artisan to cast their logo into an iron.
But the ice cream sandwiches, said Lisa, will likely be the most popular.
“We’re going to have two flavors a day,” she said. “It’s house-made cookies with our ice cream.”
Varieties include the Astor, two chocolate chip cookies filled with dirty vanilla; Johny 5 in honor of “Short Circuit,” chocolate ice cream with couch potato cookies (infused with potato chips, salted toffee and pretzels); and the Marie Dorion in honor of the lone female Astor Expedition member, with Marcona Almond ice cream between chocolate chip cookies.
As they finish renovating Frite & Scoop, the Malcolms are seeking out local opportunities, such as ingredients gathered at the Astoria Sunday Market and a possible stout ice cream collaboration with Fort George for the Festival of the Dark Arts and Carnival of Stout in February.
Its employees of the month — the Malcolms have no employees — will be members of the community, historical figures and possible Rowdy Roddy Piper. They will also offer dog-friendly frozen treats.
The Malcoms post regular updates on their Facebook page and encourage customers to taste test their continually changing lineup once open. “If you want to come in and try every flavor, we’re stoked for that.”
‘He’s super-excited about being an old-timey soda jerk.’
— Lisa Malcolm
about her husband