Like the new homes sprouting in the hills above Ilwaco, at the north end of Gearhart, the Cove area of Seaside and atop the dunes in and around Manzanita, the Columbia-Pacific region — which extends from somewhere north of Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula south into Tillamook County and, here and there, east into the Coast Range – is witnessing unprecedented new restaurant growth. Untold numbers of eateries opened in 2006; a half dozen earned inclusion in the annual Munchie Awards.

That’s in addition, of course, to a core group of restaurants that range from very good to outstanding, and because of superior food, atmosphere and service, are recognized below. All of them are establishments I’ll return to in 2007.

Astoria Coffeehouse

243 11th St., Astoria

(503) 325-1787

$

As good as they are, if you haven’t ventured beyond the beverages and pastries (don’t miss the coffee cake and brownies) at this downtown Astoria hangout rife with a hip clientele, you’re missing out. Owner Jim Defeo’s offerings are memorable: yogurt parfaits and eggs Florentine in the a.m.; perhaps a portion of lasagna, pumpkin-corn chowder or enchilada pie at noon; maybe a meatball sandwich after dark; a berry smoothie anytime.

Baked Alaska

No. 1 12th St., Astoria

(503) 325-7414

www.bakedak.com

$$ to $$$

The setting at the north end of the 12th Street pier is nothing short of stunning, and the food can be, too. Accord serious consideration to the Campfire barbecued salmon, a double-cut pork chop baked with prosciutto and fennel, a clutch of cormeal-crusted oysters or Thundermuck tuna, seared albacore dusted with a locally roasted coffee. In nice weather, request a table on the deck built above the Columbia River – close enough to river traffic to wave at crews aboard passing vessels.

The Bistro

263 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach

(503) 436-2661

$$ to $$$

One of the longer-running culinary acts (20 years) in Cannon Beach, this diminutive, tidy establishment is reminiscent of a French country inn, with unfussy, understated fare: a classic Caesar, Dungeness crab cakes, pasta tossed with seasonal this and that, seafood stew, grilled local salmon, chocolate-rum fudge cake and a mixed-berry brulee, to name a few possibilities. The pocket-sized bar defines cozy.

Bread and Ocean

154 Laneda Ave., Manzanita

(503) 368-5823

$

Locals set their timepieces to avoid missing baker-owner Julie Barker’s whole-wheat cinnamon rolls, brioche, onion-rye bread and polenta, fig-walnut and potato loaves. Stuff here sells quickly. Barker’s panini showcase combinations of Virginia ham, prosciutto, Gruyere, raw-milk smoked cheddar, organic greens, herb-spiked Dijon butter, horseradish mayo and other ingredients. Grab a box lunch stocked with a sandwich, soup or salad and a fresh-baked cookie and head for the beach.

Cafe Uniontown

218 W. Marine Drive, Astoria

(503) 325-8708

$$$

Where’s the beef? Try a New York-cut pepper steak or a filet mignon wrapped in bacon at this attractive eatery ‘neath the big bridge, where the cuisine is tilted toward the Northwest and the setting is traditional, including lots of handsome woodwork and servers dressed in white and black. Seafood hardly takes a back seat to beef, however, especially the cioppino, Astoria’s finest.

Cannery Cafe

No. 1 Sixth St., Astoria

(503) 325-8642

www.cannerycafe.com

$$$

The Columbia River rushes in and out with the tides underneath this century-old former cannery-turned-restaurant, and the breezy atmosphere could hardly be more pleasing. Savor the view with a splendid bowl of chowder, a Dungeness crab cocktail or panini at noontime. Proceed to honey-bourbon barbecued chicken, signature sauteed lime prawns or crab and shrimp cakes. Apple pie is a good two inches deep.

Columbian Cafe

1114 Marine Drive, Astoria

(503) 325-2233

$$ to $$$

The best meal in Astoria may be chef-owner Uriah Hulsey’s “Mercy,” a mix ‘n’ match of the day’s freshest fixings. And you can have yours for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Evening meals are not to be missed; the pasta seafood plates – halibut cheeks, in-season sturgeon or tiger prawns tossed with hand-crafted fettuccine and out-of-this-world sauces – are heavenly.

Currents

35815 U.S. Highway 101, Nehalem

(503) 368-5557

$$$

Go with the seasonal flow at this eatery snuggled up against the downtown Nehalem waterfront. Tried-and-true dishes showcase exciting new sides – barbecued beef short ribs with pepper-jack grits; grilled strip steak saddled alongside fingerling potatoes and pumpkin hash; baked game hen garnished with chestnut stuffing. The double-chocolate brownie is a treat, and the riverside deck is ideal for summer al fresco dining.

The Depot

1208 38th Place, Seaview, Wash.

(360) 642-7880

www.depotrestaurantdining.com

$$$

The reigning Restaurant of the Year hasn’t slipped an iota and continues as one of my favored eateries on any coast. So-called because it’s housed in a former railway station, The Depot offers rock-solid internationally oriented, upscale bistro fare. Begin with a cup of Clam Tide Railroad chowder or one of chef Michael Lalewicz’s signature house salads, then forge ahead to pistachio-crusted lamb chops, gussied up salmon and sturgeon specials or a simple but satisfying plate of pasta. Desserts are grand.

Don’s Portside Cafe

303 First Ave., Ilwaco, Wash.

(360) 642-3477

$ to $$

Platter cakes topped with cranberries are a specialty at Don’s Portside Cafe in Ilwaco, Wash. Think back to those mostly long-gone diners and corner cafes that served coffee from a glass pot alongside he-man portions of hearty grub. That’s the Portside, a haven for the plaid-shirt-and-suspenders set and a place where patrons share ideas and opinions as readily as passing the maple syrup. From the plate-smothering cranberry-splattered plattercakes to a half-pound Portly burger garnished with shaved ham, bacon, cheese and a fried egg, you won’t leave here hungry.

Driftwood Inn

179 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach

(503) 436-2439

$$

Two pounds of steamed clams are an appetizer at the Driftwood Inn Restaurant and Lounge in Cannon Beach.Unpretentious as all get-out, the rustic-looking six-decade-old Driftwood is the place for a correctly grilled 16-ounce New York steak, or a smaller filet mignon or ribeye, a cheesy shrimp casserole, halibut ‘n’ chips, a BLT, a two-pound bucket of steamers, thick clam chowder or an oyster shooter. Come summer, the line of hungry diners stretches out the front door.

42nd Street Cafe

4201 Pacific Way, Seaview, Wash.

(360) 642-2323

$$

I’ve always considered the 42nd Street Cafe to be that rarest of restaurants: a soul-gratifying food enclave with loads of functional flair, thanks to chef Cheri Walker’s far-flung repertoire. Addictive house-made conserves, a Hangtown fry, jambalaya omelets and beignets, those delectable New Orleans-inspired fritters dusted with powdered sugar, share table space with skillet-fried chicken and halibut stew, along with walnut-crusted rack of lamb and seductive raviolis.

Fulio’s Pastaria and Tuscan Steak House

1149 Commercial St., Astoria

(503) 325-9001

$$ to $$$

The moderately priced and well-chosen wine list matches well with chef Peter Roscoe’s array of Italian-influenced preparations. Fruity and refreshing pinot grigio or tocai pairs well with spaghetti a’ Piccolo Mondo, rigatoni Salsa Rosa and the fragrant pollo Rosemarino. Reds such as Chianti, Barbera and Barbaresco can stand up to the muscular flavors of bistecca – beef, veal and lamb cooked to any of six different stages of “done.”

JP’s

240 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach

(503) 436-0908

$$ to $$$

“Casually elegant dining” is the tag line here, which sounds like a contradiction, yet it fits. Chic without being cutesy, this downtown establishment feels part bistro, part fine-dining. The food follows suit: pasta primavera to duck washed with an intoxicating Marionberry-whiskey sauce, plus the tastiest seafood chowder in town. For dessert, the cappuccino torte is tops.

Lazy Spoon Cafe

No. 10 Sixth St., Astoria

(503) 325-4220

$

Carlos Carrillo, co-owner of Lazy Spoon Cafe with Marlo Carrillo, puts the finishing touches on a gyro sandwich with seasoned beef strips.Greek food is an uncommon occurrence in Astoria. This riverside breakfast-lunch stop, whose owners are of Latino descent, is the place for gyros, gorgeously presented pita pockets crammed with strips of grilled beef or chicken breast, as well as chopped tomatoes, shredded greens and a heapin’ helping of tzatziki, a cucumber-yogurt sauce. Souvlaki, lemon-herb chicken, Greek salad and bacon cheeseburgers and a comforting breakfast lineup are other options.

Lil’ Bayou

20 N. Holladay Drive, Seaside

(503) 717-0624

$$ to $$$

You can’t choose among crawfish etoufee, jambalaya and alligator at any other local restaurant, save for this bastion of Cajun-Creole cuisine. Don’t be timid; chef John Sowa’s cooking is subtly seasoned rather than hot ‘n spicy. Live music often plays in the restaurant’s Magnolia Lounge, a sultry setting to sip an exotic libation and take in the tunes.

Nehalem River Inn

34910 Oregon Highway 53, Mohler(503) 368-7708

www.nehalemriverinn.com

$$$

A country-formal dining experience in the middle of cow country is the order of the evening at this relaxing restaurant situated on a bank above the Nehalem River. Chef Ryan Hamic butchers his own meat, and his Painted Hills (Ore.) New York steak is peerless. A seared scallop and tiger prawn medley and Muscovy duck breast sided with black truffle gnocchi are equally estimable.

Pacific Way Bakery & Cafe

601 Pacific Way, Gearhart

(503) 738-0245

$$ to $$$

Whatever the season, patrons queue up every weekend morning for Lisa Allen’s artisan breads, berry scones, Danishes and other pastries at the bakery end of this airy, urban-feel cafe. The dining side is also enticing, offering crab and shrimp cakes, rosemary roasted chicken, vegan risotto, a lengthy wine list and the Oregon Coast’s finest pizzas.

Phannie Phatts

748 First Ave., Seaside

(503) 738-7122

$

Looking for a restaurant to tickle your palate with exotic flavors? Try Phannie Phatts, a beachy-casual dual-level eatery, where you can sample an appealing meld of Hawaiian and farther-east Pacific Rim taste sensations. Think curried chicken skewers, salmon glazed with ginger and soy and roast pork served a number of ways. Desserts such as Kailua rum-fudge cake, bread pudding cake and the most luscious brown sugar pull-aparts imaginable are as awesome as a perfect day at Pipeline.

The Port Bistro

235 Howerton St., Ilwaco, Wash.

(360) 642-8447

$$ to $$$

Bite-sized tidbits of crusty house bread and a small dipping bowl of herb-infused olive oil accompany every meal at this harbor-side eatery. Wine by the glass is served in tumblers, which usually means a bigger pour. And sesame-crusted Willapa Bay oysters are as fine a plate as you’ll find in the Columbia-Pacific region, especially considering the bivalves’ stellar sidekicks – garlic-parsley-infused taters and irresistible apple-fennel slaw. Sushi-style Napoleon is an eye-catching treat.

Rio Cafe

125 Ninth St., Astoria

(503) 325-2409

$ to $$

True, some of the menu is a variation on a theme. Seven burritos are offered, yet every one is distinctive and features palate-appealing flavors – chipotle-seasoned chicken, Mexican cheeses or pork and beef blended with chilies, spices and tomatillos. Really, the Rio’s food is antithetical to typical Tex-Mex sameness, particularly the pescado rojo, a lightly breaded pan-fried fish (usually sole, sometimes snapper) crusted with a ferocious garlic and red chile salsa.

The Shoalwater

4415 Pacific Highway, Seaview, Wash.

(360) 642-4142

www.shoalwater.com

$$ to $$$

No roundup of Columbia-Pacific restaurants would be complete without The Shoalwater, rated one of the top-100 hotel-restaurants in the country (and one of just three in the Northwest) by USA Today. It’s hard to go wrong with anything exiting chef Lynne “Red” Pelletier’s kitchen – braised Moroccan chicken, poached salmon enlivened by tarragon and citrus, lamb rolled in wild mushroom tidbits, a grilled Black Angus steak and Pacific Rim Potlatch, Pelletier’s take on bouillabaisse … the list goes on. Food at the adjacent, and less expensive, pint-sized Heron and Beaver originates in the same kitchen.

Silver Salmon Grille

1105 Commercial St., Astoria

(503) 338-6640

www.silversalmongrille.com

$$$

The Northwest’s signature fish reigns supreme at this upscale eatery. Try your salmon oven-poached and stuffed with Dungeness crab, bay shrimp and gouda; baked, broiled, blackened or alder-planked; or crusted with toasted pecans, topped with shrimp and freshened by a brie-champagne-cream sauce. Fruited rice is a fine accompaniment to any of the above, and the wine list is superior.

Stephanie Inn

2740 S. Pacific St., Tolovana Park

(503) 436-2221 or (800) 633-3466

www.stephanie-inn.com

$$$

“From the outset, I couldn’t help but think that this was going to be a gourmet dinner,” my dining companion said following a meal at the Stephanie, arguably the Northwest Coast’s poshest lodging. A reservation-only, four-course prix-fixe affair, dinner is an exacting routine that might feature halibut swimming in a chive-infused beurre blanc, duck confit or a garlic-rubbed New York steak bolstered by baby beets. For dessert, anything with chocolate is extraordinary.

Taste of Tuscany

1815 S. Roosevelt, Seaside

(503) 738-5377

$$

The beige and wood-accented interior shouts more formal dinner house; yet the Working Man meatball sandwich at Seaside’s newest Italian restaurant is truly heroic, a massive hoagie bulging with three well-seasoned meatballs, melted provolone and a zesty sauce. Selections such as spaghetti Bolognese tossed with wild mushrooms, seven-layer lasagna, cioppino cappelini and tiramisu exhibit molto flair.

T. Paul’s Urban Cafe

1119 Commercial St., Astoria

(503) 338-5133

$ to $$

Tables can become scarce at noontime or weekend evenings, testimony to the Urban’s popularity as a hangout for everybody from well-garbed professionals of both genders to members of up-and-coming garage bands. Roasted chicken quesadillas, prawn fettuccine and the humongous house salad are all winners, as are the cheesecakes and sundry chocolate concoctions.

Wanda’s

2850 U.S. Highway 101, Nehalem

(503) 368-8100

$$

It’s not fern-bar fancy or fussy, and it’s not quite a neighborhood cafe, either, though lots of locals dine here. No, Wanda’s is the type of place where servers are so tuned into customers’ comfort levels that they’ll ask if the chair you’re sitting in is cushy enough. Breakfasts are serious business, ranging from smoked salmon omelets to cinnamon-oat waffles and blackberry French toast. Sandwiches are two-fisted feasts, and baked treats such as muffins, tarts, cobblers, coffee cake and dense and intense scones are exemplary.

Warren House Pub

3301 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach

(503) 436-1130

$$

No local watering hole so closely embodies the convivial atmosphere of Portland’s pub scene, but with better food. Tavern aficionados who crave more than pub grub come for a rack of ribs, the Greek “Meats” West smoked lamb pita pocket, ahi splashed with wasabi-yogurt sauce, a steak wrapped with pepper bacon and one of the few bowls of Manhattan clam chowder in the region. Beers are from Bill’s Tavern & Brew House, a couple miles up the road.

Beach House Cafe

421 11th St., Long Beach, Wash.

(360) 642-5265 or (866) 843-5782

www.thebeachhousecafe.com

$$ to $$$

Vinessa Mulinix is executive chef of the Beach House Cafe, Coast Weekend’s Best New Restaurant for 2007. More than its setting, service or ambience, a restaurant is sometimes defined by its chef and how she organizes her kitchen, prepares her meals and satisfies her customers. Rising culinary star Vinessa Mulinix has imprinted her personality on the Beach House Cafe, an impressive new eatery situated back of the dunes near downtown Long Beach.

Preparations are imaginative, even inventive, but not daring, and colorful without being frilly. While quiche du jour, a hummus plate and meatloaf and curry-chicken sandwiches exit Mulinix’s kitchen, so does poached halibut served atop Parmesan risotto, coconut-coated Maui scallops and the heartiest chicken picatta I’ve ever enjoyed.

Dessert revolves around fruit crisps, Swedish cream, espresso cream puffs and chocolate this and that. The wine list, although brief, shows what’s possible with a little thought; select from among five or so whites, an equal number of reds and a lone sparkler, costing a $6 a glass or $22 a bottle. But what’s really of note here is Mulinix’s cooking, only slightly less sublime than the view out over the dunes all the way to the ocean.

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

Newmans at 988

988 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach

(503) 436-1151

www.newmansat988.com

$$$