Farm-to-table dinner series highlights local chefs
Published 8:21 pm Sunday, July 21, 2024
- Blackberry Bog Farm is hosting a series of dinners.
A returning series of dinners at Blackberry Bog Farm is giving local chefs a chance to craft menus around farm-fresh ingredients.
Chris Holen, of Nekst Event, a newcomer to the dinner series, kicked off its fifth season in mid-July.
Save for bread Holen made himself and black cod from Fishstix Seafood Market in Warrenton, every ingredient on his menu, titled “Notes From Early Summer,” was from the farm.
He mixed five vegetables — including pickled kohlrabi and sauteed garlic scapes — as a starting course, and ended with a dessert of rosemary creme brulee topped with burnt strawberry sugar.
“We had a great time,” Holen said, adding that his wife and daughter acted as sous chefs. “I got to work with products that other people don’t get to work with.”
Four more farm-to-table dinners are planned for the series through Sept. 1.
“Every single one of them is different,” said Bonnie Thompson, a co-owner of the farm and coordinator of the dinner series. “Different theme, different chef, different food … ”
For each dinner, chefs compose between four and six courses, centered around a theme. They create menus a few days in advance, according to what’s available and in season, and ingredients are harvested within a day before the event.
“It’s that fresh,” Thompson said.
The series continues on Thursday with returning chef Andy Catalano, who is creating a menu inspired by rustic Italian food. An Aug. 11 dinner crafted by Kenzo Booth, of Busu, themed “Seasons of the Sun,” is already sold out.
Jonathan Hoffman, of The Nest by Dough Dough in Warrenton, will focus on flavors of early fall on Aug. 22. He plans to offer at least one salmon dish, he said, “to show it off in its best forms.”
Closing out the series on Sept. 1 is Jake Martin, returning to the farm for a second year, this time with the theme “A Pacific Northwest Repast.”
Martin’s experience last year served as a proof of concept for his newly-opened Astoria restaurant, Daphne.
“It was really cool to be able to walk through the farm and see what was perfectly ripe and in season and then just make a list of what we wanted,” Martin said.
He considers himself lucky to cater the series’ final dinner, as he can better anticipate what’s going to be in season in early September.
“Tomatoes are going to be all over the menu,” he said, as is very likely pork from Low Tide Farms, he added.
The opportunity to collaborate with farmers and compose his menus based on what’s available is a highlight for Martin.
“It’s really the only sustainable way to go forward,” he said.
At the dinners, chefs introduce each course, highlighting where the ingredients came from and how they were prepared.
“By the time we hit course No. 4, everybody’s so relaxed and smiling,” Thompson said. “It’s really fun to watch people go from the hustle and bustle of getting there, and just watching them really relaxed.”
Thompson’s son, Andrew, himself a trained chef and Holen’s past intern, is preparing a signature cocktail and soda for each event, which will highlight a seasonal farm product that pairs with the food.
During the dinners, farm owners and staff also become servers.
“The people that actually planted and harvested the food are actually the ones that do the serving as well,” Thompson said.
Before the dinner, the Thompsons give guests — a maximum of 25 — a tour of the farm east of Astoria.
“They can actually go out and wander the fields,” Thompson said. “We love the opportunity to have people come out and enjoy the farm and really see where their food comes from.”