Fish shop restarts at the Port
Published 12:15 am Monday, June 8, 2020
- Port of Astoria Marina Seafood Market offers traditional fare like calamari baskets, left, and Dutch specialties such as croquettes.
A former co-owner of NW Wild Products and her partner have opened a new, Dutch-tinged fish shop at the Port of Astoria’s West Mooring Basin.
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Roy Breur, a transplant to the Pacific Northwest from the Netherlands, recently opened Port of Astoria Marina Seafood Market. He was advised on how to run the business by his partner, Amanda Cordero. She ran NW Wild Products with her ex-husband, Ron Neva, for a decade at the Port before he closed the shop last year and opened Hurricane Ron’s downtown.
“I come by here a lot, because I think it’s a beautiful place, and it’s just been quiet all winter,” Breur said. “I thought it was eerie how desolate it was. It was always such a lively place. So I came home and I talked to her about it and said, ‘Well, maybe we should open it up again, because summer is coming.’ That was before the pandemic, of course.”
Breur signed a lease with the Port, which offered him a discount rate until he could open up amid government restrictions on restaurants meant to stem the spread of the virus. Thinking he’d have most of the summer to prepare, Breur instead had a soft opening late last month when restaurants were allowed to resume seated dining.
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Cordero, who went to work at El Tapatio Mexican Restaurant after NW Wild Products closed, said she was laid off because of virus restrictions and started advising Breur on how to restart her old seafood shop.
“It was just sad,” she said. “It was like a ghost town down here when it wasn’t here.”
The shop, a small slot of a storefront in the Chinook Building with room for one table, operates like a to-go window. It depends on several tables spread out across the boardwalk, overlooking a sea of pleasure craft and commercial boats at the marina. The area features panoramic views of the Port, Columbia River and Astoria Bridge.
Breur offers the usual lineup of fish and chips, melts, chowders, sandwiches, crab platters, clams and oysters. Inside is the same case of fresh seafood and exotic meats NW Wild Products had been known to stock. Breur added a few Dutch specialties, such as croquettes, sauerkraut mashed potatoes and pea soup.
“I moved here five years ago,” Breur said. “I’m a born American, but I was raised over in Holland, and I worked in … different service industries over there, amongst others fish. My parents — my mother specifically — comes from a town called Den Helder, which is a fishing city.”
Next door, the Port is deconstructing the former Seafare Restaurant, a landmark between the Chinook Building and the Astoria Riverwalk Inn that had long been vacant and deteriorating. The agency is contemplating a deck at the site, with a collection of food carts overlooking the marina.
Breur, a musician, hopes to start playing music on the docks. Cordero said the shop’s side business — cleaning, packing and shipping salmon caught by recreational fishermen coming into the marina — has been slowed by coronavirus restrictions.
Cordero said the docks at the Port seemed empty after Neva moved downtown.
“It’s going to be weird, but we all get along,” Cordero said of running a fish shop in competition with her ex-husband. “We’re all on the same page. He knows that we’re here. He’s helped us. In fact, he sold us some of his equipment. We’re all going to help each other. There’s no animosity.”