Weekend Break: Glimpsing Oregon’s farthest reaches

Published 5:31 pm Saturday, September 7, 2019

The quiet, nestled jewels of northeastern Oregon could fill a book. And they do. But I tend to prefer the satisfaction of self-guided exploration.

Here you’ll find some of the nicest people you’ll meet anywhere around. There’s something about the parts of this state where drivers still say “hello” with a casual wave.

I’ve been getting out there every year for the past few years, and only see that frequency increasing as my heart’s desire grows.

Joseph is only about 420 miles and a seven-hour drive from the North Coast, but these reaches aren’t for everyone. Life is slow, and nightlife nonexistent. Most of everything is closed on Sundays. But there’s a simplicity of pace here and a quiet that draws my heart.

In town

Named for Nez Perce leader Chief Joseph in 1880, Joseph has recently been transformed into an art mecca. Be sure to visit Valley Bronze’s Gallery & Foundry. The gallery on Main Street is open to the public and holds regular hours, but to visit the foundry you’ll need a reservation. Cost is $15 per person.

Don’t miss the Josephy Center for Arts & Culture, billed as the “gathering place for artists in Wallowa County.” The most recent exhibit — titled “A River Runs Through Us: The Art and Words of the Lostine” — celebrates the nearby Lostine River interpreted by local artists.

At the lake

This place reminds me of a quieter, smaller real-life version of John Candy’s classic 1980s film “The Great Outdoors.” And the lake holds numerous state kokanee records, including a nearly 10-pound fish that for years held the International Game Fish Association world record.

Be sure to check out the Wallowa Lake Tramway, which opened in 1970 and at the time was the steepest elevation lift in North America, taking you past 25 towers with a 3,700-foot rise to the summit of Mount Howard for incredible views of the Wallowas and beyond in all directions. At $35 for an adult, the views are worth every dollar.

Where to stay

Lodging is largely dependent upon your personal preferences and budget. From the newly opened Joseph Hotel (book via Airbnb) to the beautifully rustic Wallowa Lake Lodge and Belle Pepper’s Bed and Breakfast in the historic McCully’s Mansion to the countless cabins and houses surrounding the lake and camping at Wallowa Lake State Park, any way you choose to sleep will provide a unique experience.

Throughout the year

For a small town with a population of just over 1,000, Joseph and the surrounding area has a plethora of events throughout the year celebrating culture, art and music.

Chief Joseph Days are held the last full weekend of July and the Juniper Jam Music Festival is held at the Wallowa County Fairgrounds in Enterprise over Labor Day weekend. The Eagle Cap Extreme Sled Dog Races run through the Wallowa Mountains starting from the Fergi Ski Area 9 miles southeast of Joseph each January and Oregon Alpenfest is held each September.

In the wild

But don’t think this area is all lakeside cabins, festivals and shopping. It’s also the jumping off point for one of the most expansive wilderness areas in the state.

At 2.3 million acres, the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest — stretching across northeast Oregon into Idaho — includes some 600,000 acres of designated wilderness and is sometimes referred to as the Swiss Alps of Oregon. The Eagle Cap Wilderness alone comprises four designated wild and scenic rivers that begin in Eagle Cap Wilderness: the Lostine, Eagle Creek, Minam an Imnaha.

Land preservation

The Wallowa Land Trust is raising funds to acquire a nearly 1,800-acre swath of land adjacent to the lake for public preservation. The land is owned by a private trust, and both parties have agreed upon a $6 million purchase price. The Wallowa Land Trust is in the final phases of fundraising now, aiming to reach the fundraising goal by the January deadline. The land would be managed through a public-private partnership.

On the way and back

Just west of Enterprise, you’ll definitely want to stop at the 6 Ranch farm store. You’ll be glad you did as you step back in time to select your meats, veggies, herbs and more. But instead of checking out with a cashier, you’ll simply write your items on the purchase log and leave your payment. Be sure to bring cash or check. There’s no paying with your card or phone here.

Upon reflection

While I could write much more about this majestic corner of the state, I’ll save some secrets for you to discover yourself. That, I feel, is one of the best parts of travel — the wondering sense into unknown exploration.

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