Uncorked Ramblings: Now’s the Time for ‘stormy weather’ wines

Published 5:00 pm Thursday, October 24, 2013

The leaves have changed to beautiful golden colors and are drifting to the ground. Those fabulous long summer days are behind us, and the temperatures now require sweatshirts, hats and those long-forgotten things called gloves.

Theres no getting around it – fall is in full swing, and winter is around the corner.

What does that mean in terms of wine? Well, many of us enjoy a nice crisp glass (or, bottle!) of rosé or white wine during the warmer months. But, this is the time of year for bigger and fuller wines that will warm you up on chilly evenings. Red wine lovers rejoice; this column is dedicated to you!

One of my recently discovered favorite wines is Lujon Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon. Lujons winemaker, John Derthick, graduated from UC-Davis in 1999 and moved to Beaverton a few years ago to begin his winery and you will be glad he did. This full-bodied cabernet is made with Walla Walla fruit and has wonderful aromas of cherry, black currant and anise.

As you drink this, you taste flavors of vanilla and cocoa, in addition to the fruit. This wine has a big mouth feel and a long finish, which comes from the 14.8 percent alcohol content. When I first tasted this wine in May, I was immediately impressed and invited John to pour his wines in The Wine Shacks tasting room as part of our summer winery series.

Those of you who visited The Wine Shack tasting room during the Plein Air Festival were introduced to Lujon wines that weekend. This wine is starting to get some attention; it recently received 90 points from Wine Spectator magazine.

When you think cold weather wines, most people think about cab, sauv, merlot and syrah. Although zinfandel doesnt typically come to mind, I think its higher alcohol content makes it a perfect wine for cold and rainy nights. Simply put, get your pajamas on, have a glass of zin and you will be headed towards a lovely long winters nap (or, more realistically, a good nights sleep).

When youre talking zinfandel in Oregon, Angel Vine is a big winner in my book. While most Oregon wineries focus on pinot noir, Angel Vines focus is on zinfandel. Located in Carlton, Angel Vine makes several singe vineyard zins, a primitivo (a close relative to zinfandel) and a couple of nice zin-primitivo blends.

Yes, they also make a delicious pinot noir, but my favorite of theirs is the Angel Vine Columbia Valley zinfandel. Its a complex wine that delivers aromas and flavors of dark fruit and chocolate, with a subtle smokiness. How amazing does that sound? This zin checks in at a 15.2 percent alcohol content, which will certainly take the chill off the evening.

While I usually enjoy a nice glass of zinfandel with grilled foods, this one would also pair nicely with rich, chocolate desserts. Angel Vine visited The Wine Shacks tasting room in September, and customers were in heaven (pun intended).

How about a nice glass of port to end the evening? Port is a fortified wine with an alcohol content that is significantly higher than your typical table wine (20 percent versus 13 percent). If you visit The Wine Shack, then you know Im a big fan of Quinta do Noval, Noval Black. This delicious wine is straight from Portugal, and because its so good, I often have a bottle open behind the counter and offer customers a taste with they come in.

No thanks, they say, I dont like port. Now, Im of the belief that if you come in to The Shack, and I offer you a free taste of wine, you need to open your mind and give it a try. Trust me!

Its fun watching the transformation and seeing them head out the door with a bottle! This isnt your grandpas dark and brooding port. Instead, this ruby port has flavors of cherry and blackberry, with a light acidity.

Noval Black is nice on its own, but to get its fullest expression, you should pair this port with brownies or fudge. If I havent convinced you yet, consider this: Noval Black received 90 points from both The Wine Advocate and Wine & Spirits Magazine!

For you white wine lovers who long for the sunny and warmer days of summer, dont fret too much. You can probably succeed in making a nicely oaked chardonnay your cold weather companion. When a chardonnay is aged in oak, it develops a full mouth feel and typically creamy, buttery flavors that combine to give a savory richness to the wine. If thats too much wine speak gobbley gook for you, I apologize. Lets just say this: Slightly oaked chardonnay is delish!

I enjoy LEcole Columbia Valley Chardonnay, 2012. This chardonnay offers flavors of apple and tropical fruit with a nice, creamy richness. This style of chardonnay pairs nicely with fondue, dishes with a cream sauce, chicken and Caesar salads. LEcoles 2012 Chardonnay has received 90 points from Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

So, as we work our way through the stormy days of fall, you now have several new wines to try. Embrace the opportunity to try a cabernet sauvignon from an up and coming local winery, a zinfandel from an Oregon winery not focused on pinot noir, a new style of port or a white wine, when the calendar says its red wine season. Who knows, you may find a new favorite.

If youd like to taste these wines, come in and head upstairs to The Wine Shacks tasting room from 1 to 5 p.m. Friday, Nov 1 and Saturday, Nov. 2. All of these wines will be on our tasting menu. If you cant make it into The Shack for the tasting, you can find these wines, and more, for sale on our website, www.beachwine.com.

Several of the wines in this column contain higher than normal alcohol levels, so please enjoy them in moderation. See you at The Shack!

Steven Sinkler is co-owner of The Wine Shack in downtown Cannon Beach.

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