ROSBURG Proponents of organic dairy products tout their health benefits: farmers use no synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, no antibiotics, and the products have higher nutrient density than conventional dairy.

            But for Grays River Holsteins, a family farm in Rosburg, Wash., switching to an organic operation was also a business decision driven by soaring fuel prices in the mid-2000s.

            The farm is far from I-5, and shipping costs became a concern. The milk would travel to Darigold facilities in Portland or Chehalis. Owners Gary and Susan Burkhalter had to pay the shipping costs themselves.

            I was afraid the price to ship the milk would eat up my profits, Gary said.

            In 2006 Gary decided to switch to an organic operation and to work with Organic Valley, a cooperative based in Wisconsin.

            We needed to create a niche for our business, Susan Burkhalter said.

Business stability

            It turned out to be a good decision. For one thing, Organic Valley pays the shipping costs to get the milk to Portland every other day, Gary said.

            With diesel fuel hovering around the $4 mark, that adds up.

            We feel more solid now, Susan said.

            Milk is a commodity. Darigolds price for milk can change month to month depending on the going price at the Chicago Mercantile Exchange, Gary said.

            That makes it difficult to budget.

            Youre not sure what your incomes going to be, Gary said.

            Organic Valley sets it price for the year.

            Susan added, The best part is we dont have to market our products.

            Not that they dont promote the Organic Valley brand to friends and neighbors. But they dont sell products on the farm or go to farmers markets.

Organic process

            The Burkhalters chose to be certified organic by the Washington State Department of Agriculture. Its a lengthy process.

            You dont just decide to go organic one day and there you go, Susan said.

            The land had to be free of fertilizer and pesticide for three years. Then the animals had to be fed certified organic feed for three months. Thats since changed to one year.

            Whats more, if cows get sick, antibiotics, commonly used at regular dairy farms, are not an option.

            Gary said organic farms focus on preventative measures.

            We dont push the cows as hard to be productive, he said. It minimizes the stress on the animals and reduces the risk of illness.

            Its the same with people, he said. If you push yourself too hard, you get sick.

            For example, dairy cows are susceptible to mastitis, an infection of the udder.

            When cows get mastitis, sometimes the best thing is to let the animals immune system take care of the problem on its own, said Gary, a Washington State University grad.

            We were taught the conventional method, which is to go straight for the antibiotics right off, Gary said.

            There are also naturopathic and homeopathic treatments to nurse their critters back to health.

            They make their own organic feed from grass and haylage, those giant marshmallow-looking bundles you see when you drive along the highway. They also buy alfalfa and grain. It all has to be certified organic, and it all comes with a higher price tag.

Transition

            The transition from a standard dairy to an organic operation was a challenge.

It was tricky because we had to be organic but get paid regular, Susan said.

            Fortunately, Organic Valley helped out.

            Theyre a very farmer friendly co-op, Gary said. They really want to see their farmers succeed.

Meet the family

            Garys parents, Bob and Lois Burkhalter, started the dairy farm in 1976. They live next door and continue to help out on the farm. Gary and Susan purchased the farm from them in 1994.

            Gary runs the farm; Susan works with the cows and does the books.

            Gary and Susans son Austin and his wife, Nicole, live close by and work the farm.

            Austin hopes to take over the farm some day, Susan said.

            The Burkhalters eldest son, Kyle, also helps out on occasion. They also have two younger boys, Gus and Bowen.

            You really should be talking to him, Susan quipped about 4-year-old Gus. He knows everything.

            Theyre trying to impress on the younger children how much fun working on a dairy farm can be. At least before that work becomes a chore.

            When youre little you cant get enough of tractors, Susan said.

            The farm also employs a hired hand.

Farmers hours

            Gary is up at 4:15 a.m. every day and off to bed between 9 and 10 p.m.

            Taking a vacation is very difficult, Susan said. We have to milk the cows two times a day.

            Thats 110 milking cows, mainly Holsteins. Gary said they also have about that many younger cows that havent matured to the point that theyre ready for milking.

            The cows spend April through October in the pasture. Theyre in the barn for the rest of the year. The organic certification requires that the cows be in the pasture at least 120 days a year.

            The family gets a few days off a couple of times a year, Gary said.

All smiles

            The Burkhalters are pleased with the decision go organic. Gary said he has no regrets at all.

            Susan gives Gary a lot of credit for the decision and applauds the results.

            It was a very smart business decision amidst a lot of doubt, she said.

            For more information on Organic Valley products and availability log on to www.organicvalley.coop.