As the child of two golf fanatics from Seattle, I spent many a summer vacationing at the old Gearhart Hotel, where my parents’ friends and their children joined us each year as we converged on the hotel.

While our parents golfed, we frolicked in the seaside swimming pool and played hide-and-seek in the cozy nooks and crannies of the old hotel. The highlight of our day was dining at the Sand Trap’s Bamboo Room, then run by June Maden. Here I learned the art of the BLT sandwich – a food memory that I will always treasure.

The original Sand Trap restaurant and hotel were lost, partly due to fire. Since then, the building has been renovated, and the restaurant has changed hands many times – sometimes with good results and some not so good. Knowing the history of the McMenamin brothers’ restorations, many diners eagerly anticipated the opening of the new McMenamins Sand Trap, which held its grand opening in March.

The McMenamin brothers are masters at restoring run-down historic places and transforming them into comfortable, friendly establishments that revere the history of each place. With close to 60 locations in Washington and Oregon, several of the McMenamins’ most well-known restorations include the Edgefield in Troutdale (which also has a golf course) and the Rock Creek Tavern in Hillsboro.

The Sand Trap is located in the clubhouse of the Gearhart Golf Links. Established in 1892, the Scottish-style greens and fairways are among the oldest west of the Mississippi. Lined with gnarled shore pines, the gently rolling hills provide beautiful scenery and a challenging golf course. Inside, warmed by a massive wooden fireplace, the restaurant is richly lit with antique hanging lamps and chandeliers. Dining spaces are separated by wrought-iron screens hand-tooled by John Emmerling of Gearhart Ironwerks, who also forged the fireplace screens and tools. Hand-painted murals depicting Gearhart’s history and vintage photographs of the original hotel and restaurant are juxtaposed with old and new stained glass windows. A mix of wooden booths, open tables and bar stools provides seating for every mood. Downstairs, adjacent to the pro shop, the intimate Pot Bunker Bar is also warmed by a wood-burning fireplace. In fair weather, outdoor tables looking out over the greens are warmed by a wood-burning fire pit on cooler days.

Secret Garden Vegetable Pizza at The Sand Trap.Thanks to manager Dave Brockle, my first impression of the restaurant was positive. When I called to inquire about reservations, Brockle said, “We don’t take reservations, but it’s not very busy right now, so just shoot on down here and have some dinner.” His upbeat, friendly tone set the mood for my first dining experience at the Sand Trap.

Brockle says that in addition to serving out-of-town guests, “our goal is to be a ‘hole’ for the locals. We will never close, not even in the worst storms. We will always be here to pour a beer, make a sandwich or serve hot soup – and the fireplaces will always be roaring.”

Visitors to the newly renovated Sand Trap Bar & Grill will find numerous seating options, indoors and out. Photo by Liz Devine, McMenamins Pubs & Breweries.I am happy to report that the food served at the newly opened Sand Trap has been very good – far exceeding my expectations. For starters, house-smoked single-malt smoked salmon served with dill sour cream and crostini was superb. The salmon was dense, moist and perfectly smoked and the crostini were crisp and golden. Oysters on the half shell with chipotle mignonette were crisp and briny. Other starters include steamer clams (steamed in Edgefield pinot gris with garlic, butter and herbs) and Dungeness crab cakes with spicy remoulade sauce.

Main dish salads include the tasty Distiller’s Salad, made with tender Hogshead whiskey-marinated chicken, dried cranberries, spiced pecans and mixed greens tossed with honey-mustard dressing. The Brewer’s Salad, topped with blue cheese crumbles, roasted hazelnuts and pickled red onions, topped with a raspberry-Ruby Ale vinaigrette, provided the perfect balance of sweet and savory. The menu also features a seafood Cobb salad and a smoked salmon Caesar.

Under “dinner specialties,” one night, fresh razor clams were lightly breaded and cooked to perfection. They were served with a flavorful vegetable risotto brimming with peas, red peppers and asparagus. I’m not sure about the combination of razor clams and risotto, but separately the two dishes were fresh and very well cooked and seasoned. A glass of Edgefield pinot gris, with crisp notes of pear and melon, blended nicely. A bacon-wrapped filet mignon, served with roasted red potatoes and brocollini, was perfectly cooked and the steak had been beautifully aged. Here, a glass of robust Edgefield Syrah (Chukar Ridge, Wash.) hit the mark. Local pan-fried oysters with spicy remoulade and Yukon gold mashed potatoes were spot on.

I have not had a chance to try a burger or sandwich at the Sand Trap, but reports are in that the Captain Neon Burger with bacon and blue cheese is outstanding. I’m looking forward to Wilbur’s Jumbo Deluxe Burger with bacon, Tillamook cheddar and a fried egg, and the ale-marinated New York steak sandwich with smoked jalapeno butter and frizzled onions. I’m hungry just writing about it.

Pizzas and calzones, cooked in a traditional pizza oven, are crisp and delicious. The Secret Garden Vegetable Pizza, with a light base of garlic-tomato sauce, comes brimming with sweet red peppers, red onions, mushrooms, black olives, artichoke hearts, spinach and fresh herbs.

A hand-scooped milkshake sounded so tempting for dessert, but a seasonal apple crisp won over. Served warm and topped generously with organic vanilla bean ice cream, it made my list of one of the best desserts I’ve enjoyed recently.

Even if you don’t golf, visit the Sand Trap for the view of the historic pine-lined course, the smell the salt air and the roar of the ocean – and enjoy the fantastic seasonal fare.