TIDES & TABLES: Food for thought – readers talk back about restaurant reviews

Published 4:00 pm Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Six months ago, I wrote my first restaurant review for Coast Weekend. Much has happened in those past six months – most recently marked by the passing of Richard Fencsak, The Daily Astorian’s former food critic. Unfortunately, I never had the chance to meet Richard in person, but our paths crossed many times through friends and business associates. Like many others, I eagerly anticipated Richard’s weekly restaurant reviews and his columns where he responded to readers’ comments. To carry on Richard’s tradition, this column is dedicated to our readers who love food and dining.

To date, my most controversial review has been on The Bridgewater Bistro in Astoria, in which I said my dining experiences had been “hit and miss.” Reviewing newly opened restaurants is a difficult task. In preparation for this review, I visited three times with different friends to sample dishes and make observations. As I said in my review, I will definitely revisit Bridgewater. I have the utmost respect for owners Tony and Ann Kischner and executive chef “Red” Pelletier and am sure that this will become, if it hasn’t already, a premier destination restaurant in the Pacific Northwest. The restaurant is stunning and the location, right on the Columbia River, is outstanding.

Here is what readers had to say: One Seaside reader wrote, “‘Hit and miss’ and ‘ups and downs’ were descriptions used. A ‘home run’ would have been a better phrase for Tony and Ann Kischner’s new restaurant.” He continues, “The ups and downs should be referring to the outstanding view and the tides. This restaurant will become another Astoria icon, joining the Cannery Pier Hotel and the Hotel Elliott.” This reader based his experience on dining with groups as large as eight and quick and quiet meals for two. “The food has been outstanding and I’m not worried that the service staff will catch up with the kitchen’s professional presentation.”

Another wrote: “I have to disagree with the author of this article. I would give the Bridgewater a five-star rating. We dined there twice on our last visit to Astoria and were very impressed with this restaurant. We sampled many things, including appetizers, entrees and desserts. All were very good and perfectly executed … Be patient with this place as they work things out,” she continued. “We loved it here and can’t wait to return!”

When I reviewed Yummy Wine Bar & Bistro in Seaside, I commented (in my four-star review), “While the food is extremely delicious in a comfort-sort of way, it is equally sophisticated in flavor and execution.” One person wrote: “I totally agree with the author on this review. We visited Yummy Wine Bar once and were very impressed. We shared a flight of sauvignon blanc with a bowl of risotto, which was excellent. This is a fine addition to the Seaside food and wine scene and we will definitely return.”

I stand corrected on a mistake I made in my review of Buoy 9 in Hammond, one of my favorite places for breakfast. I was told that a buoy 9 didn’t exist when, in fact, one does. It is located just on the other side of the Columbia Bar, in Washington, at the southern point of the North Jetty. A local fisherman, who also enjoys the restaurant, was kind enough to point this out.

One person wrote in with comments about a photo we ran of swordfish steak. She had recently read the “Smart Seafood Guide,” from Food and Water Watch, a nonprofit consumer rights organization based in Washington, D.C. She suggested that “in addition to writing about recipes, ambiance and restaurant owners,” I also mention the source of foods and their health aspects – whether it is organically grown, locally grown or caught, wild or farmed. In response, most of the chefs I meet are very concerned about supporting local companies, including fisheries, farmers and vintners. Most chefs are also concerned about health and protecting the environment. Whenever it is relevant, I do mention food sources in my articles. As consumers, we are fortunate to be able to make our own personal choices regarding where we dine and what we eat.

A delightful couple I met last fall at a mushroom dinner at the China Beach Resort in Seaview, Wash., suggested that I review the Tuscany Café, located at the Port of Ilwaco. “The salads are fresh and innovative, and the entrees have been quite satisfying, plentiful and tasty,” they wrote. Coast Weekend did review the Tuscany Café some time ago, but it is time for a new visit. Ilwaco is home to some wonderful restaurants. The Port Bistro is one of my favorites and I can’t wait to try Pelicano.

A Seaside resident called to thank me for my review of the Shilo Restaurant in Seaside. He felt that I had given the restaurant long overdue credit and also added that I should visit Girtle’s, Pudgy’s and Dooger’s in Seaside. He reports that Dooger’s has “the best grilled tuna sandwich you will find.”

Over the past six months, I have reviewed many restaurants and have also had the opportunity to write about food in ways that touch many people on different levels. One piece covered the heroic efforts of chefs, volunteers and community leaders who came together to feed needy people following the devastation of our “hurricane.” Another story featured chefs and others who volunteered their time to raise money for the Clatsop County Women’s Resource Center. Food is common ground. For all of us, it means nourishment and survival. When survival and hunger aren’t issues, food also presents us with the opportunity to share joy and community spirit around a table. In the best of times, food is also entertainment and an embellishment to life. The past six months have shown me that writing restaurant reviews is like hitting the tip of an iceberg. Underneath each restaurant or food article lies the substructure of the resources we rely on – fishers, farmers, winemakers, chefs, bakers, delivery drivers, food banks and many more.

Congratulations to all the winners of our Readers’ Choice Awards for dining. I look forward to visiting you soon.

Best Bakery: Cottage Bakery in Long Beach, Wash.

Best Breakfast Spot: 42nd Street Café in Seaview, Wash.

Best Lunch Spot: 42nd Street Café

Best Fine Dining: 42nd Street Café

Best Desserts: The Depot Restaurant in Seaview, Wash.

Best Restaurant for Kids: Pig ‘N Pancake – several locations

Best Wine Shop: Cellar on 10th in Astoria

Best Brewpub: Fort George Brewery & Public House in Astoria

Best Clam Chowder: The Depot Restaurant

Best Coffee: Long Beach Coffee Roasters in Long Beach, Wash.

Best Latin Food: Rio Café in Astoria

Best Asian Food: Chen’s in Long Beach, Wash.

Best Waitperson: Jean Marc at 42nd Street Café

Best Fish ‘n’ Chips: Bowpicker in Astoria

Best Burger: The Depot Restaurant

Best Pizza: Fultano’s Pizza – several locations

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