For years, whenever I drove past the Great Wall restaurant in Gearhart, I was always impressed by the large number of cars in the parking lot – both day and night. From that, I figured the food must be really good. Finally, one Christmas Eve, about 12 years ago, I decided to give it a try and called in a take-out order.

I was on my way to visit a friend in Oysterville, Wash., and Chinese take-out seemed the perfect meal. My only problem on that stormy night was that as I drove north across the Columbia River and up the Long Beach Peninsula, the delectable aromas of barbecued pork, pot stickers, green beans in black bean sauce and more swirled around inside my car, causing acute hunger pangs. The road seemed endless, and by the time I arrived at my destination, I was starving. With a view of Willapa Bay in the foreground and a simple, splendid meal laid out with classic white take-out boxes, break-apart wooden chopsticks and a glass of wine, we could not have been happier.

Great Wall became my favorite Chinese take-out spot and has been for years. It is friendly and consistent. Enter the front door, graced by a neon Chinese dragon on one side, gaze at graceful koi swimming in an aquarium and decorative Chinese altars placed on each side of the cash register, pick up your food and go. It is so nice. But with take-out, you miss out on the peaceful ambience and gracious service of the restaurant itself.

Owner/chef Simon Lin, who was born in mainland China in Canton, opened Great Wall about 15 years ago. When Lin remodeled the restaurant recently, he traveled to China to purchase furnishings. He also added a cozy lounge onto the restaurant, which is a popular spot for locals. In the elegant restaurant, carnelian red and beige walls are decorated with dark wooden plaques inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Chairs, also inlaid, are covered with elegant red and gold cushions. An elaborate carved sliding screen separates the dining room from the banquet room. Asian music plays softly in the background.

While you might see Lin out front greeting people, his favorite spot is in the kitchen. “I like cooking the best,” he says. As a child, Lin developed an interest in cooking by watching his parents cook. When he moved to the United States, about 20 years ago, he learned to cook professionally from his brother and worked at restaurants in California and Oregon. His best education, he says, comes from reading Chinese cookbooks and from dining out with his wife Maggie and their four daughters.

Awaiting the main course at the Great Wall Restaurant in Gearhart, Ashley and Jason Kraushaar share soup with 8-month-old Tallen, bottom, and 2 1/2-year-old Tanner.Lin prides himself on using the freshest ingredients he can find. “The flavor and texture of food is totally different when you use fresh products,” he says. “I am really picky when ordering supplies. Sometimes I go and pick out my own ingredients. I always care about freshness and quality.” While he does not use MSG in any of his dishes, they are certainly not lacking in flavor.

For starters, barbecued pork is moist and tender. Crispy, golden egg rolls hold a steaming hot filling of chicken and sautéed fresh vegetables. Deep-fried in a light batter, his calamari is some of the best I’ve had. Soups include seafood soup, Chinese green soup with chicken and vegetables and tofu soup, among others. Amber-colored hot and sour soup (the perfect remedy for a cold) features a richly flavored broth flecked with finely diced vegetables and tofu, with a perfect balance of sour and hot.

Diners visiting the Great Wall Restaurant in Gearhart are greeted by traditional Chinese decor and a tank filled with koi and other fish.Great Wall’s menu is extensive, and to date, nothing has disappointed. Among my favorites are the fresh green beans in black bean sauce or garlic sauce. Perfectly cooked (as are all Lin’s vegetables), they are crisp and lightly coated with Lin’s homemade sauces. Chicken subgum chow mein is brimming with fresh vegetables and tender pieces of chicken. A generous serving of moo shu barbecue pork, sautéed with cabbage, bean sprouts and thinly sliced carrots, is served with thin rice pancakes and a thick rich plum sauce exotically flavored with star anise.

Meaty chunks of chicken are fried crisp and tossed with a thick spicy sauce in General Tsao’s chicken. Also under chicken dishes you will find orange flavored chicken, cashew chicken, chicken in black bean sauce and many others. Chef’s specialties, all served with steamed rice, include Happy Family – containing fresh shrimp, scallops, chicken, beef, barbecued pork and vegetables, and Great Wall beef – tender pieces of beef seared over a high flame and tossed with the restaurant’s special sauce – among many others.

In addition to the a la carte menu, there are a variety of combination plates and family style dinners featuring a variety of Great Wall’s popular dishes, for around $10 per person. Lunch combination plates (served until 3 p.m. every day) are a bargain. For just $5.25, you can order a three-course meal with soup, and for just a bit more, you get one of Great Wall’s specials served with soup, an egg roll and pork fried rice. Chef Lin says, “I really care about people. I want to make them feel happy and smile.” I know that I always leave Great Wall with a smile on my face and a warm, happy belly.

In step with many other major reviewers, Lori McKean awards up to five stars for a restaurant’s performance. Categories she considers are:

? Food

? Atmosphere/Ambiance

? Service

? Consistency