Wine basics: Grape Varieties of the Northwest

Published 4:00 pm Sunday, December 30, 2007

Learn about many of the wine grapes grown throughout the Northwest. Some are major players, such as Merlot and Pinot Gris. Others are more obscure in our region, such as Tempranillo and Ehrenfelser.

Auxerrois

An important grape in the Alsace region of France, Auxerrois has gained a bit of a foothold in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. The white grape produces a wine of good fruit-driven characteristics that should pair well with white pasta dishes, chicken or seafood.

Barbera

One of the world’s most widely planted grapes, Barbera is best known in Italy’s Piedmont region. It’s also prevalent in southern Italy and throughout California. It’s a late-ripening variety that enjoys warmer climates but also can fare well in certain cooler regions.

The Northwest is starting to discover Barbera, but the grape still is lightly planted and just a handful of wineries make separate bottlings of Barbera.

Cabernet Franc

Though scientists have shown Cabernet Franc to be a parent (with Sauvignon Blanc) to the mighty Cabernet Sauvignon, this red variety tends to languish in the background as a blending grape.

Cab Franc, as it’s known, is one of the five major grapes of France’s Bordeaux region, and it’s found solid footing in the Pacific Northwest, primarily in Washington and British Columbia. Its winter-hardiness made it an early favorite, and now it’s finding a fan following among consumers. Wineries that take great care with the variety in the vineyard and the cellar can indeed craft delicious wine. It tends to enjoy the aromas and flavors of Cabernet Sauvignon with fewer of the drying tannins.

Cabernet Sauvignon

The king of red wine grapes is Cabernet Sauvignon (popularly referred to as Cab) and is one of the primary grapes used in France’s famous Bordeaux region.

Cab thrives in Washington’s Columbia Valley because of its long days, hot temperatures and arid surroundings. It produces wine of great strength and finesse. The South Okanagan Valley in British Columbia and Southern Oregon’s Rogue and Umpqua Valleys also are emerging as good areas to grow Cab, and Idaho also may prove to be Cab country.

If you like big red wines, Cab may be just the ticket for you.

Carmenere

This red wine grape is at least as interesting for its history as it is for its quality.

Carmenere once vied with Cabernet Sauvignon for quality in France’s Bordeaux region. But when the root louse phylloxera swept through France’s vineyards in the late 1800s, Carmenere didn’t take well to grafted rootstock and was thought lost to history.

However, before phylloxera, some supposedly Merlot vines from Bordeaux were planted in Chile. At least, it was thought to be Merlot. More than a century later in the 1990s, it was discovered that much of Chile’s Merlot actually was Carmenere, and now other areas of the New World are discovering it.

In the Northwest, small amounts are planted in Washington/Oregon’s Walla Walla Valley, and the resulting wines are fantastic. Look for this grape to gain a cult following among wine lovers in the know.

Chardonnay

America’s favorite white wine also is Washington’s. It’s the most-planted grape in the Columbia Valley and results in wines of many styles, from steely, fruit-driven bottlings to big, oaky ventures. If you like Chardonnay, you’ll love Washington wine country.

Chardonnay is the No. 3 grape in Oregon, after Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. Oregon producers spend a lot of time on clonal selection and work hard to find just the right versions of the grape that will excel in the cooler climates of the Willamette Valley.

In British Columbia and Idaho, Chardonnay is a different grape than elsewhere. The wines tend to be more fruit-driven, less oaky and higher in natural acidity, making them perfect for seafood.

Chenin Blanc

A classic and noble variety, Chenin Blanc is generally associated with France’s Loire Valley. In the New World, it’s sadly overlooked as a high-tonnage, low-quality grape. However, a few enlightened Northwest wineries craft delicious Chenin Blanc, primarily in Washington and British Columbia.

Dolcetto

Often forgotten in northwestern Italy as the unimportant sibling to Barbera and Nebbiolo, Dolcetto is a red wine grape that can make a wonderfully fruity wine that is approachable in its youth and pairs well with a wide variety of cuisine.

Just a bit of Dolcetto is made in the Northwest, primarily in Washington’s Columbia Valley and Oregon’s Umpqua Valley.

Ehrenfelser

This white grape was developed in the late 1920s in Germany and is a cross of Riesling and Silvaner. Many consider the grape to be superior in ripening and flavor to Riesling. It is named for the Ehrenfels Castle on the Rhine River.

In the Northwest, it’s grown primarily in British Columbia, where it results in a tasty dry or off-dry table wine. It really shines as an ice wine, thanks to its fruit-driven flavors and solid acidity.

A tiny bit also is grown in Oregon.

Gamay Noir

Rarely taken seriously, Gamay Noir is the main variety of France’s Beaujolais region. It produces a bright, tasty, drink-now wine.

Just a little of the grape is grown in the Northwest, and even fewer wineries bottle it separately.

Gewürztraminer

Don’t be dismayed by its tongue-twisting name or you’ll miss out on one of the most aromatic wines you’re likely to find.

Simply called “guh-VERTZ,” this white German variety is a spicy wine whose characteristics include grapefruit and orchard fruit aromas and flavors.

A great match with Asian-inspired cuisine, Gewürztraminer often is crafted with a touch of residual sweetness, making it perfect for everything from picnics to fine dining.

Gewürztraminer is made in limited quantities throughout the Northwest.

Grenache

An increasingly important red grape in Spain and southern France, Grenache (also known as Garnacha) plays a minor role at best in the Pacific Northwest.

The grapes thrive in hot climates, so it would seem to be a natural in Eastern Washington and Southern Oregon. And the resulting wines can be delicious in the right hands.

Ice wine

A speciality of regions that get really cold after harvest, ice wines are fabulous ultra-sweet dessert wines. The most famous regions for ice wine are Germany, Austria and Canada, and British Columbia makes some of the world’s best.

Grapes are left on the vine long after harvest and are picked by hand once temperatures reach a certain level, usually about 17 degrees Fahrenheit (-8 Celsius). Typically wineries will trudge through snow in the middle of the night to pick the grapes when it’s cold enough. These marble-hard grapes then are crushed. Since they’re frozen, just a few drops of sweet juice comes out and ultimately fermented. Because it’s so hard to make and just a little results from the harvested fruit, ice wine tends to be very expensive and usually comes in half-bottles.

The best ice wines are those that retain natural acidity in the face of late harvests and high sugars. This is why Riesling is one of the finest varieties for ice wine. A few wineries also are experimenting with red ice wines, using Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

A little ice wine is made in Washington and Idaho. Some wineries make “ice wine” by picking late-harvest grapes, then freezing them. The resulting wines are not nearly as good as the real thing, and changes in the law in 2003 has forced wineries that make such wines to label them as something other than ice wine. So when you see “ice wine” on the label, you know you’re getting a true ice wine.

Late harvest

Late harvest wines are from grapes left on the vines past traditional harvest times so more sugar can develop. The resulting wines are sweeter and can be quite delicious.

All Northwest wine regions produce late harvest wines from a number of varieties, though often Riesling is the grape of choice.

Late harvest wines tend to be inexpensive, though some wineries put a great deal of care and effort into their versions, thus the prices can go up accordingly.

Lemberger

Known in its native Austria as Blaufrankisch, Lemberger is a red grape grown in just a few areas of the Northwest, primarily Washington’s Yakima Valley, with just a little in Oregon’s Willamette Valley and British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley.

The resulting wine tends to be delicious and jammy. It’s generally inexpensive and perfect for middle-of-the-week dinners.

Malbec

With Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot, Malbec is one of three primary blending grapes in red Bordeaux, typically playing second fiddle to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. By itself, Malbec makes a simpler, softer version of Merlot, though a few areas, especially Argentina, are specializing in Malbec.

In the Northwest, Malbec is a minor player, with plantings in Washington’s Columbia Valley and Oregon’s Umpqua Valley. Resulting wines show off blackberry and black peppr aromas and flavors and pair well with roasted meat dishes.

Marechal Foch

This hybrid red grape variety is named after a French World War I hero and is legendary for its high tonnage and ability to withstand the worst winter conditions. It’s also vilified for low-quality wine, which is why little is left in the Pacific Northwest. Those wineries that still produce Marechal Foch craft it with great care and can come up with surprisingly high-quality reds that will pair well with roasted meats.

Merlot

Perhaps Washington’s most famous wine is Merlot, a red wine that can be smooth and fruity or bold and rich with complex flavors.

In France’s Bordeaux region, Merlot often is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to produce some of the world’s most famous wines. This blend also is popular in Washington.

However, in the ’90s, Washington emerged as one of the great places in the world to grow and craft Merlot. The poor soils, long days and cool nights are just about perfect for this round, supple red wine.

British Columbia’s South Okanagan Valley, Southern Oregon’s Rogue and Umpqua Valleys and Idaho’s Snake River Valley also have strong potential for the grape.

Muller-Thurgau

This white grape is a crossing of Riesling and Silvaner and so named because a Dr. Muller from the Swiss town of Thurgau was the man who came up with the variety in the late 1880s at Geisenheim in Germany.

Muller-Thurgau is one of the world’s most-planted grape varieties, particularly in Germany, where it outpaces even the noble Riesling.

In the Northwest, a fair bit of Muller-Thurgau exists, primarily in cooler climates such as Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Washington’s Puget Sound appellation. It tends to produce a tasty off-dry wine perfect for summer sipping or pairing with the region’s abundant seafood.

Muscat

A number of grape varieties fall into the Muscat family, the most famous of which are Muscat Canelli, Muscat of Alexandria, Orange Muscat, Early Muscat and Black Muscat.

In the Northwest, most Muscat comes from Washington and Oregon. It’s produces a white, off-dry to ultra-sweet wine with wildly fruity aromas and soft, delicate flavors. It’s perfect for brunches, picnics and as a summer afternoon sipper.

Nebbiolo

The noble variety of northwestern Italy’s Piedmont region, Nebbiolo is the grape that makes Barolo and Barbaresco some of the world’s greatest reds. The wine’s soft red colors belie its high, often-harsh tannins that can take years to settle down.

A few vineyards grown Nebbiolo in the Northwest, and just a handful of wineries are crafting the wine. Look to Washington’s Columbia Valley or Oregon’s Rogue Valley for Nebbiolo.

Pinot Blanc

This lesser-known sibling of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris is a delicate and often-overlooked white grape that can produce delicious wines.

Best known in Germany and France’s Alsace region, Northwest Pinot Blanc is grown primarily in Western Oregon and the interior of British Columbia. Look to pair it with pasta dishes, seafood, shellfish and chicken.

Pinot Gris

Pinot Gris (pronounced “PEE-no gree”) is Oregon’s second-most-popular grape after Pinot Noir. It may well be the ultimate food wine, thanks to its fresh fruit flavors, versatility, bright acidity and youthful approachability.

Washington, too, is making a good amount of Pinot Gris with success. But it might be British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley where Pinot Gris shines next. The northerly climes provide great natural acidity and clean, fresh flavors that pair beautifully with the abundant seafood served in the restaurants of Vancouver and Victoria.

Pinot Noir

The noble red grape of France’s Burgundy region also is Oregon’s most important variety. The cool Willamette Valley seems to be a great region for growing the grape.

Pinot Noir is a notoriously fickle grape that can be difficult in the vineyard as well as in the cellar. It is an early ripening variety, which works well for Western Oregon’s climate. A number of Oregon wineries have moved to “gravity-flow” operations that allow the wine to be moved from harvest to fermentation to barrel aging to bottling using primarily gravity rather than pumps. This allows gentle handling of the wine, thus a better product.

British Columbia is emerging as Pinot Noir country, with most of the grapes grown in the arid Okanagan Valley in the province’s interior. The quality is improving dramatically as the industry develops.

Little Pinot Noir is grown in Washington, with most of the acreage west of Cascades. Idaho also grows a bit of Pinot Noir.

Port

Port is so named because it is most famous in the Oporto area of Portugal. It’s a fortified wine, meaning brandy or some other spirit is added during fermentation. The high-octane alcohol kills the yeast and results in a sweet, high-alcohol wine.

Ports can be made with just about any grape. Even though there are traditional Portugese varieties used to make ports, most New World winemakers use whatever they want. So in the Northwest, you will find ports made with Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Muscat, Lemberger and even fruit wines such as cranberry or huckleberry. This means a port can be red or white, though most are red.

Some regions don’t use the name “port” because it is a geographical name. Thus in British Columbia, for example, a port will be given a proprietary name by the winery. For example, Sumac Ridge in Summerland, B.C., calls its port “Pipe.”

Riesling

This German variety was Washington’s first star, and today Riesling still is one of the state’s favorite wines.

Idaho, too, is well known for its steely Rieslings. In British Columbia, the grape is used most famously for its ice wines, as the wine’s natural acidity gives these ultra-sweet wines plenty of backbone. Riesling is a small part of Oregon’s production, but the Willamette Valley can make some delicious versions in the hands of caring producers.

Often value priced, Riesling is food-friendly and can reveal its greatness as a dry, off-dry or sweet wine. Don’t overlook this fine wine.

Sangiovese

It may be difficult to pronounce, but Sangiovese is easy to enjoy. Pronounced “san-jo-VAY-say,” this grape is famous in Italy for producing Chianti, named after a region in Tuscany.

In the Columbia Valley, more than two dozen Sangioveses are produced, whose hallmark is ripe cherry, berry and smoky aromas and flavors. One sip and you’ll likely be a fan.

Sauvignon Blanc

One of the noble white grapes of France’s Bordeaux region, Sauvignon Blanc is gaining fans globaly as a food-friendly alternative to Chardonnay. The grape is grown with great success in California’s Napa Valley as well as New Zealand.

In the Northwest, Washington produces the most Sauvignon Blanc, and the Columbia Valley’s version is unlike those from other regions. Washington’s tends to be loaded with luscious orchard fruit aromas and flavors. Like its counterpart in Bordeaux, Washington’s Sauvignon Blancs often are expertly blended with Semillon, giving them tremendous complexity and character.

Semillon

A white Bordeaux variety, Washington Semillon may be as great as any in the world.

Barrel aging can make this succulent white wine as big as a Chardonnay, but with more finesse. and its distinctive fresh fig and vanilla characteristics will make you a fan.

What most don’t realize is the wonderful age-worthiness of Semillon. Well-made versions will improve for a decade or more.

Siegerrebe

This white grape is best known in its native Germany, where it produces wines of great character. This grape has little trouble ripening and, in fact, produces as much sugar as just about any European wine grape variety.

The wine was introduced to North America by the owners of Bainbridge Island Winery near Seattle. It’s now grown in small amounts in Washington’s Puget Sound region and British Columbia.

Syrah

Pronounced “sur-AHH,” this red wine grape is a popular choice among aficionados as more Washington wineries are crafting the wine.

Syrah tends to have lower acidity, making it fruitier and more approachable in its youth. It also shows great complexity in the hands of master winemakers.

Syrah’s ancestral home is the Rhone Valley in southern France, specifically the Northern Rhone. Interestingly, the Northern Rhone and Washington’s Columbia Valley are just above the 46th Parallel, and both regions excel with the grape.

Many Washington Syrahs are rich, jammy and hedonistic, and the very best exhibit a wild spiciness with good acidity and bold flavors.

Southern Oregon is emerging as Syrah country, too. Del Rio Vineyards in the Rogue Valley is supplying top grapes to some of Oregon’s most famous Pinot Noir producers.

Tempranillo

If you love Spanish Rioja, then you already know about Tempranillo. This red grape is Spain’s answer to Cabernet Sauvignon. It produces wines of great character and caliber.

A tiny amount is grown in the Northwest, specifically in Southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, where Abacela Vineyards specializes in the variety. The winery’s work with Tempranillo is helping others realize the potential of the wine in the Northwest.

Viognier

A darling among wine consumers, this rich, fruity white wine is made by a handful of Northwest wineries and is gaining popularity with every vintage.

Viognier (pronounced “vee-own-YAY”) is most famous in the Condrieu region of France’s Northern Rhone Valley.

Zinfandel

Zin is California’s grape, that’s for certain. No where else is this Croatian variety so widely planted. Because of the success of red Zin (vs. white Zin, a sweet blush that is given little serious consideration beyond cocktail hour), other regions are looking at the grape, including the Pacific Northwest.

As a result, a minature revolution of sorts is occuring in Washington with Zinfandel. Much of the vineyard acreage is in the Columbia Gorge, where hot days and constant breezes produce superior quality. A few wineries are crafting Zins that are proving in competitions to be the equals to some of California’s best. Expect this niche to grow through the years.

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