Most of this country’s wine press is aimed at people who think nothing of paying triple figures for a California cab or an Oregon pinot, or those who wish they could.

What about the rest of us? We’re just looking for a good quaff once in a while without emptying our wallets.

I’m no vinophile, yet I can search and sip with the best of ’em. Here’s a roundup of some satisfying and generally easy-to-find wines for $20 or less. I’ve sampled many of them during the past year; most would would match well with your Thanksgiving feast. Just remember: Drinking what you like is the only real rule for enjoying wine. (Note that not all the wines are available at every wine outlet mentioned here.)

Celebrate the Northwest

Believe it, many of the world’s finest wines originate on the slopes of the Willamette Valley’s Dundee Hills, Red Mountain in Washington, the Columbia River Gorge, the Umpqua, Rogue and Applegate valleys and other growing regions (called American Viticultural Areas) in Oregon and Washington. While it’s true that a handful of Oregon pinot noirs and Washington reds sell for more than $100 a bottle, there are memorable wines to be had for far less.

Go for pinot

Really, it’s the ideal Thanksgiving wine – pinot noir, that is. Oregon’s premier grape will compliment turkey or other fowl, as well as pork and even prime rib. Of course, there’s a down side: Because pinot noir is the wine world’s hardest-to-grow grape, worthwhile bottles costing less than $20 are scarce. Exceptions include A to Z (Oregon’s largest winery), Bridgeview, Duck Pond, Eola Hills, Erath, Firesteed, Jezebel, Silvan Ridge, Willamette Valley Vineyards and Argyle, among others. The latter brand, in my opinion, is Oregon’s best buy year after year ($18.99 at Safeway). Although it may lack snob appeal, the Costco-branded Kirkland Signature Pinot Noir (see box for contact info), a blend of grapes grown in the Willamette Valley and southern Oregon, is the real deal for $13.99.

Reds for long life

You may have read about recent scientific research, conducted with rats, that suggests red wine can prolong life. What’s unquestionably true is that fine red wine can make life more enjoyable. Pinot noir is a red, of course; so are well-known wine varietals (grape types) such as merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah (or shiraz, as it’s called in Australia) and zinfandel. Other up-and-coming reds, at least in America’s collective wine consciousness, include cabernet franc, dolceto, malbec, tempranillo, grenache, sangiovese and others.

Consider a blend of some of these different grapes. Eastern Washington producers, particularly from the Columbia Valley, make tasty red mixers for attractive prices. Barnard Griffin, Covey Run, Snoqualmie and Waterbrook are brands readily available on store shelves; some cost less than $10. Maryhill Winery, located in the Columbia River Gorge, produces Fort Rock Red, one of my personal favorites (another is Waterbrook Melange). The best-stocked local outlet for Maryhill wines is Astoria’s Silver Salmon Cellars, where a colorful locally inspired label (painted by artist Bill Dodge) showcases every bottle.

Whites are all right

Chardonnay continues to be America’s darling white wine. Break with the pack and try something different, such as sauvignon blanc, a crisp white wine that’s an easy sipper. You can find Washington’s Hogue Cellars (labeled Fume Blanc) for less than $8.

The most extensively grown white-wine grape in Oregon is pinot gris, which thrives in the Willamette Valley’s cooler climate. Among the many ($8 to $20), Adelsheim is my pick. Or, you might opt for viognier, another floral, fruity white – Maryhill and Waterbrook are top-drawer buys. Also look for Sokol Blosser Evolution, a blend on nine varietals (about $14.98 at Safeway).

Bargain buys

Jug wine isn’t what it used to be; it’s way better. If at least a few of your Thanksgiving guests will consume a couple glasses of wine apiece, consider purchasing a couple 1.5-liter bottles, containers that are twice the size of regular 750-millileter bottles (25.6 ounces). Look for Washington’s Columbia Crest label, perhaps America’s best wine buy. Choose among cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, chardonnay or a merlot-cab blend, all widely available. The latter two cost $11.99 at Costco. Some of Columbia Crest’s finest (and higher priced) wines are labeled “Grand Estates” and come in regular-sized bottles. These cost about $10 to $12 each, a bargain for a superior wine.

Celebrate with fizzies

Forget champagne – that is, sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France. The good stuff is expensive – a decent bottle will set you back at least $35 – and the rest is mostly mediocre. There are numerous other satisfying sparklers from around the world, and a splendid one originates in Oregon. Argyle Winery markets a sparkling wine from chardonnay and pinot noir grapes that’s as good as you’re likely to find for the price – about $20. Also consider Washington’s Domaine St. Michelle, currently selling for $9.48 at Safeway.

Splurge for dessert

Dessert wines typically come in thin 375-milliliter bottles, or half the regular size. These libations are meant to be savored in smaller quantities, so one bottle should accommodate a half dozen diners, depending on the serving size. Some inexpensive selections, recommended by Mike Wallis, proprietor at Astoria’s Cellar on 10th: Bernard Griffin Syrah Port, Hood River Vineyards Oregon Marionberry and Oak Knoll Winery Frambrosia. One of my faves is Ste. Chapelle Ice Wine Riesling from Idaho, available at Costco for $14.99.

Use stemware

There’s a reason for the “stems” on wine glasses – they allow an imbiber to sniff, swirl and sip his wine in the “bowl” part of the glass without much hand contact, which can warm the wine and adversely affect its taste. Hyper-expensive top-of-the-line stemware (such as Riedel, which can cost $20 or more, per glass) is a nice luxury, but not necessary to enjoy the wine you’re drinking. Any department store stemware is preferable to standard glass tumblers.

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103, phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com