Being the big dog, the life of the party, the center of attention or anything involving the spotlight was never my thing. Still isn’t. So when readers suggest I wield influence and power vis-a-vis the restaurants I review, well, I sheepishly disagree.

Such was the case when Georgene Swenson, from Seaview, Wash., e-mailed me (the bulk of my correspondence these days arrives electronically) about changing the seafood used in a restaurant’s Mexican fish dish.

“Do you think you could talk Julie Foster (owner of Astoria’s Rio Cafe) into going back to making pescado rojo with sole, preferably petrale like they used to, instead of the snapper? Like you, this is my favorite dish at the Rio. Normally in my own cooking, I avoid highly seasoned recipes for sole, but somehow it works there.”

Response: Sure, I comment on restaurant food, service, even standards and policies. But I try never to advise restaurateurs (or chefs) how to conduct their business. Nonetheless, Georgene, I passed on your comments to Julie at The Rio.

The Coile controversy

I received lots of feedback about the last reader-response column (Coast Weekend, Aug. 10), in which I passed on comments from Paul Coile, who founded and owned Pauly’s Bistro in Ilwaco, Wash., with his half-brother Jeff, along with their respective wives Lara Lee Johnson and Geri Marcus. The restaurant is now called the Port Bistro and under different ownership. Here’s a sampling:

“Thank you so very much for printing much of the Coile letter. It was hilarious and I need all the laughter I can get. I especially liked all the gracious aspects. I am a loyal (Chinook) Observer reader – not at the Coast as often as I like and concentrate my visits in the Ocean Park city limits. Thanks for your weekly column. It’s my dessert.”

– MLA

“We own a small cabin in Ocean Park, and have come to rely on your thoughtful reviews for our dining adventures when in the area. We have dined at The Port Bistro a number of times, starting when it was named Pauly’s.

“Keep on doing what you’re doing. All reviews are ultimately subjective and anyone can quarrel with the conclusions if they wish, but no one with an ounce of good taste would go as far Chef Coile went in his criticism of you … Ignore him.”

– Kurt and Jan Sharar

Ellensburg, Wash.

Even Mr. Coile rejoined the fray:

“Conspicuously absent from your article was how insulting the tone of your response was … thus spurring my ‘insipid self-important jackass’ comment … ah, but I suppose that part does not matter? Though, after all of this silly B.S., I wish you well in all future endeavors.”

Response: Enough said, from all corners.

Sushi sense

An unsigned e-mail arrived soon after my Tora Sushi review (Coast Weekend, Sept. 14).

“I would just like to let you know my experience of Tora Sushi. I have been there more than three times. The sushi was great. I speak from a person who likes sushi and has eaten at many sushi restaurants. The service I experienced was wonderful. My server … filled me in on what was good (for my taste) and just information in general for any question I had. I found your article wordy – not really meaningful. The experience of sushi is its own experience, either you like it or you don’t. A nice selection of restaurants in Seaside is good for our economy and just a different choice. I would like this published in your paper. We will see if that can happen.”

Response: I welcome your comments, and I’m glad your Tora Sushi experiences were superior to mine. Not that I didn’t like the place, mind you; but it didn’t resonate with me (and there were those annoying lapses in service all three times I visited). Anyway, I appreciate that you’ve taken the time to communicate. I’ll include your comments in my next “Reader Feedback” column.

Restaurant recommendations

Skyler Walker, from Long Beach, Wash., provided this commentary:

“In your recent article about Long Beach restaurants (Coast Weekend, July 20), I was surprised that you omitted Kelly’s Deli, next to Marsh’s Free Museum. I spend a lot of time in Long Beach taking care of the flowers in the parks, and after trying assorted meals have settled on their wonderful, addictive Mediterranean wrap as my favourite Long Beach lunch. Plus, they deliver, and have a buy-10-get-one-free deal for their regulars.”

Response: I’ve eaten at Kelly’s Deli, although not recently. And I haven’t tried the Mediterranean wrap. Yet another oversight and another reason to sample more appealing-sounding food.

Cannon Beacher Jana Pihota e-mailed her own restaurant recommendation.

“The next time you’re in Cannon Beach, be sure to stop by Cranky Sue’s (gotta love the name) for the best crabcakes you’ve ever eaten. I think this would be a super gotta-visit-it beach eatery for your Coast Weekend column.

“Sue and Rick, the owners, arrived from New Jersey this past summer and promptly opened Cranky Sue’s. They previously owned several big restaurants in New Jersey, but wanted to downsize a bit in Oregon. They have created a funky, casual beachy atmosphere with awesome made-from-scratch Maryland blue crabcakes (90 percent crab), clam chowder, paninis, ‘Dirty Drunkin Dogs’ (hot dogs stolen right off a cart in NYC) and much more. The prices are cheap (especially by CB standards), the menu large and varied and the food is incredible.”

Response: Thanks for the great tip. I’m not familiar with Cranky Sue’s, but I intend to become so. When I visit, I’ll say, “Jana sent me.” Perhaps I’ll even affect an East Coast accent (folks claim I’ve lost mine).

Blues, brews, BBQs and the Fat Brando band, to boot

And finally, a nice invite came from Astorian Fred Van Horn:

“Hi, Richard. After getting beat up so much as The Mouth, I thought I would invite you to our kick back party.” (Note: It was a Blues, Brews and BBQs gig in mid-August featuring the Fat Brando band; unfortunately I was unable to attend.)

Response: Thanks, bro. Even restaurant critics need to experience a good time once in a while. Sorry I missed out.

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103, phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com