MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA: The ABCs of summertime dining
Published 5:00 pm Wednesday, August 23, 2006
Shorter days, cooler nights and those annoying back-to-school sales at all the department stores herald a change of seasons, but doggone it, summer’s not over yet.
Skipping a few letters here and there, here’s an A to Z guide to get you through all that glorious warm and sunny weather that awaits us for the next month or more.
ALBACORE AND FRIES – Bowpicker Fish ‘n Chips (corner of 17th and Duane streets, no phone), Astoria’s most unusual warm-weather dining venue, serves five or so medium-sized pieces of deep-fried tuna served atop a mound of plank-cut taters. It’s a lot of food for $8.
BARBECUE, SOUTHERN-STYLE – Think slow-smoked rather than grilled meats and seafood, and there are really only three places to get your ‘cue locally: Brooks Bar-B-Que House (204 Pioneer Road E., Long Beach, Wash., (360) 642-4227); Riverside Bar-B-Que (1300 S. Holladay Drive, Seaside, (503) 738-7858); and Rollin’ Thunder BBQ (77 11th St., Astoria, (503) 325-5936).
CRAB CAKES – The tastiest cakes are concocted with fresh Dungeness crab. Try the light, flaky, incredibly rich and lusciously crabby rendition at Clementine’s Seafood (1335 Marine Drive, Astoria, (503) 325-1067).
DEAD GUY ALE – This is the beer for your summer beach party. Find it at Rogue Ales Public House (100 39th St., Pier 39 complex, Astoria, (503) 325-5964).
ENORMOUS BURRITOS – Build your own meal in a tortilla with tequila-lime chicken, spicy beef, rice, refried or whole black beans, sour cream, tasty house salsas, guacamole and a hundred or so different hot sauces at Left Coast Siesta (288 Laneda Ave., Manzanita, (503) 368-7997).
FRIES – Nothing’s more summery than a plate of deep-fried taters smothered (or not) in ketchup. Bill’s Tavern & Brew House (188 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, (503) 436-2202) serves ’em crispy to the last nibble.
GYROS – At the Lazy Spoon Cafe (10 Sixth St., Suite 107, Astoria, (503) 325-4220), pita pockets come crammed with grilled beef or chicken breast, along with chopped tomatoes, shredded greens and a heapin’ helping of a warm-weather-refreshing cucumber-yogurt sauce called tzatziki.
HUEVOS RANCHEROS – An ideal summer morning repast, huevos at Wanda’s (2850 U.S. Highway 101, Nehalem, (503) 368-8100) is gloppy-good from the two-tortilla base upwards to the ranchero sauce topping, not too sweet or zesty but flush with flavor, especially when mixed with the warm and runny yolk from the expertly cooked eggs.
ITALIAN WINES – The brief selection at Fulio’s Pastaria and Tuscan Steak House (1149 Commercial St., Astoria, (503) 325-9001) is moderately priced and well-chosen. Fruity and refreshing pinot grigio pairs well with many of Fulio’s pastas, although a red such as the inexpensive Primitivo would better complement the heartier dishes.
LAMB – Once a week at Drina Daisy (915 Commercial St., Astoria, (503) 338-2912), lamb (here called Jagnjetina na Rostilju) is slowly roasted three hours or more, then cut “Mediterranean-style.” A plate arrives piled with slabs of tender unadorned flesh.
MARK (Thompson) and NATE (Webb) – The two best bartenders in town are on duty most evenings at Astoria’s Schooner Twelfth Street Bistro (360 12th St., Astoria, (503) 325-7882). It’s a pleasure to watch this indefatigable duo in action on a bustling summer evening, even if you’re nursing a Diet Coke.
NONAL-COHOLIC THIRST QUENCHERS – Choose among Key lime ade, lavender-mint julep tea, berry-medley yogurt shakes, a Coco-Naughty Delight that’s a blend of coconut juice and raspberries and a surprisingly satisfying rice drink with a flower infusion called hibiscus horchado at Tiki Juice y Tacos (965 Commercial St., Astoria, (503) 325-9150).
OUTDOOR DINING – There are ample opportunities for al fresco dining in the Columbia-Pacific region. But the deckside tables high above the Columbia River at Baked Alaska (No. 1 12th St., Astoria, (503) 325-7414) are real stunners.
PESCADO ROJO – Hot ‘n sassy food tastes better during the carefree days of summer. Warm your innards with a Rio Cafe (125 Ninth St., Astoria, (503) 325-2409) platter of fiery garlic-and-chili-seasoned snapper or sole that’ll render your taste buds pleasingly scorched.
REUBENS & RHETORIC – Both well-crafted sandwiches and stimulating conversation are on tap at Goose Hollow at the Cove (220 Avenue U, Seaside, (503) 717-1940). Nosh, while keeping up with the chatter, at one of the outdoor tables.
STREET FOOD – Hands down, the best venue with the most variety is the Astoria Sunday Market, which operates 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. every Sunday rain or shine until Oct. 8. Find the market on 12th Street in downtown Astoria, between Duane Street and Marine Drive.
THUNDER BUNS – Wondrously gooey-sticky, buttery and addictive, these luscious baked treats can be had at Bailey’s Bakery & Cafe (26910 Sandridge Road, Nahcotta, Wash., (360) 665-4449).
UGANDA BUGISU – These are some of the exotic coffee beans you might buy at Long Beach Coffee Roasters (811 Pacific Ave. S., Long Beach, Wash. (360) 642-2334). Sink into one of the cushy inside chairs or watch the world go by on the out-of-the-wind deck while imbibing your beverage of choice.
VEUVE CLICQUOT – For a satisfying summer sipper with some kick, real champagne (made in the Champagne region of France in the traditional manner) can’t be beat. Savor a glass in the outside garden at Vino Manzanita (387 D Laneda Ave., Manzanita, (503) 368-8466).
WHOLESOME FARE – Almost everybody favors summer salads. The House Garden Salad at T. Paul’s Urban Cafe (1119 Commercial St., Astoria, (503) 338-5133) features greens galore and nutritious tidbits such as sliced avocados and cukes, red cabbage and carrots. Fruit, too.
X-ER ALERT – Don’t be concerned about the pierced and tattooed Gen-X’ers who sometimes hover near the front entrance to the Voodoo Room (1102 Marine Drive, Astoria, (503) 325-2233), home to rock-solid pizzas and more than enough immortal hipness. They’re harmless, and besides, inside you’ll just as likely encounter a laid-back senior as an edgy scenester.
YOUNG’UNS – As every parent knows, children can be hard to please, especially when choosing a restaurant that serves more than fast food. Take your kids to McKeown’s (714 Broadway, Seaside, (503) 738-5232) and let them choose among chocolate-chip pancakes, bacon and cheese scrambles, fish ‘n chips, barbecue cheeseburgers and peanut butter-fudge pie. There’s an agreeable adult menu, also.
ZINGER’S – For the yummiest ice cream, in a gazillion flavors, head for Zinger’s Homemade Ice Cream (210 Broadway, Seaside, (503) 738-3939).
Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103, phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com