Woody Hayes, the legendary (and now deceased) former football coach at Ohio State University renowned for his “3 yards and a cloud of dust” running offense, once stated that only three things can happen when throwing the football, and two of them are bad (incompletion, interception).

The same might be said for a restaurant changing ownership. Oh sure, the food and service might improve. Just as likely would be that things get worse; or the restaurant might even close because of mismanagement, loss of key staff members, customers bailing out or any number of reasons. When a favored eatery switches hands, wariness is what most patrons experience. They wonder if new management will stir the pot or stay the course.

Two months ago, El Tapatio moved into the second-floor space of a Uniontown corner location built a few years back with restaurants in mind (Uniontown Fish Market Catering & Deli occupies the downstairs section of the building). Las Maracas, a well-known Northwest Tex-Mex chain, tried its hand up top but, for whatever reason, threw in the towel after three-plus years in operation.

Now pretty much everybody who lives in these parts and appreciates Mexican food has experienced the Tex-Mex conundrum that Las Maracas imposed on its customers. Call it sameness, lack of variety or simply the Americanization of Mexican cuisine; fact is, most of the south-of-the-border themed eateries throughout the Northwest and beyond serve a lot of identical chow. In some cases, restaurant menus are indistinguishable; the lunch and dinner sheet at Las Maracas was a case in point, and the food followed suit.

El Tapatio’s menu exhibits a lot of that sameness – the ubiquitous fajitas and mariscos, combination plates ad nauseam and burritos done every which way are all here. Yet there are notable exceptions; all of them make the new restaurant most welcome. And El Tapatio’s manager, L.A. transplant Juan Rivas, makes this place hum, although he and his staff insist on repeatedly calling every customer “amigo.”

For one thing, El Tapatio’s chunky tomato-based house salsa is superior and certainly sassy enough to satisfy most palates, although the chips are garden-variety. Fortunately, not all of the restaurant’s sauces are interchangeable. Pollo en mole features a semisweet earthy-colored sauce that’s tasty, if less pungent than some, while chile verde tastes of tomatillos.

Huevos (eggs) can be ordered with ground Mexican sausage or shredded beef, and enchiladas Sunrise comes crowned with two eggs over easy. Enchiladas de spinaca showcases a couple corn tortillas stuffed with shrimp, mushrooms, spinach and salsa. None of these preparations are startling, I realize, yet they exhibit a dash of creativity, even panache.

Fish is a mainstay on many Mexican tables, yet many Tex-Mex menus rarely venture beyond shrimp or scallops. At El Tapatio, expect ample variety: shrimp, scallops, crab and cod rolled into the enchiladas Marineras; oysters on the half shell (Ostiones en su Concha); soup swimming with shellfish and squid (Caldo 7 Mares); Mar y Tierra, a Tex-Mex take on surf ‘n’ turf, along with the bacon-wrapped camarones Monterey, a version of devils on horseback; even shrimp ceviche served atop a tostada. And kudos to the kitchen for offering talapia (pescado frito), especially prepared like you might find at some cantina in a small Mexican fishing village (if there still is such a place). Be aware that this farmed talapia is served whole – the eyes, gills and the entire head appear front and center on your plate. Using fingers or fork, you rip away the crispy-skinned flesh from the bones.

El Tapatio’s attention to detail is a plus. Little things such as hunks of chicken instead of shredded fowl in the taco salad, the plenty spicy camarones a la Diabla, the melted jack swirled amid black beans and the pork meatballs in the sopa del Albondigas, a clear-broth Mexican soup, all make meals more memorable. That said, I’m not convinced salting the rims of beer glasses is such a good idea. But the flan, made by Rivas using a splash apiece of amaretto, Bailey’s and Kahlua (which is Mexican in origin), is a decent rendition and superior to the virtually inedible Jello-like crud that’s typical of formula Tex-Mex.

The restaurant may not warrant an out-of-the-way trip, but El Tapatio satisfies the urge for most of the Tex-Mex delights that have wedged their way into mainstream American appetites. ‘Cept here, these dishes are prepared with expertise and verve that’s a notch and a half above much of the Tex-Mex pack. Just be prepared to be called “amigo.”

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103, phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com

The Depot restaurant in Seaview, Wash., will host its final wine dinner of the season Friday, June 9, with an emphasis on Spain. Look for tapas such as pickled green beans and dates stuffed with baked almonds, then wrapped with Serrano ham. The main plate will be paella replete with prawns, mussels, sausage, clams and rabbit, while dessert will feature orange flan surrounded by almond-date cookies. Seven different Spanish wines will be served.

Cost is $69 per person, and reservations are necessary. Phone the restaurant at (360) 642-7880 or visit www.DepotRestaurantDining.com