Here’s the deal: Rogue Ales Public House, open since March 8 and already a favored stop for craft beer aficionados, is mostly about beer, not food.

Oh sure, following the successful trend of brewpubs everywhere, Rogue offers a full menu that ranges from buffalo wings and a Brutal Reuben to barbecued ribs and a Bombay burrito. But frankly, the grub served here isn’t, as yet, a pervasive reason to visit.

It’s the brewed libations and the pub’s location a couple hundred feet out in the Columbia River that make Rogue an intriguing and even an addictive destination. True, the accoustics are challenging and about what you’d expect from a pub occupying a cannery complex constructed in 1875. Still, not counting Pelican Pub & Brewery, situated on a Pacific City sand dune within sight of Cape Kiwanda, Haystack Rock and the ocean, this may be the choicest venue to savor an ale anywhere in America.

If you’ve already visited and dined on a so-so Kobe burger or overcooked calamari, or were disappointed by the touted Rogue chili with nary a bite of beef, well, you know the score. The fare is so far mostly uninspired. And spendy – I mean, what’s with the $11.50-and-up burgers, or an order of onion rings costing $7.75?

Service certainly has improved since early March; consequently, you shouldn’t have to wait 15 minutes to even catch a server’s eye. And in fairness, the kitchen exhibits signs of cresting the quality hump that most new restaurants encounter. Witness the cheesy pizzas top-heavy with fixings (but not much sauce), a satisfying southern-style gumbo and Parmesan-crusted salmon (with roasted red taters and pasta salad), among other preparations that show promise.

Still, this place is about beer and enjoying it with friends. A longing gaze out one of the west-facing windows peek-a-booing Astoria’s east-end mooring basin and beyond, you could easily forget about an expensive burger or a sub-par bowl of chili.

But the suds would remain memorable. Almost 30 tap brews are available for quaffing, including 20 from Rogue Ales. Shakespeare Stout, Dead Guy Ale, Hazelnut Brown Nectar, Mocha Porter, Old Crustacean Barleywine are all here, along with Guinness, Anchor Steam, Heineken, even Pabst Blue Ribbon and Budweiser for lightweights. Newcomers to the Rogue brand can satisfy their curiosity with a taster tray containing four brews of four ounces each.

If I rated the Rogue pub, I’d award three stars for the location and the beers, two stars for the food. Frankly, I’d rather report on the brewskis. During numerous visits, beer drinking accomplices and I sampled the entire Rogue lineup. In no particular order, here are excerpts from our tasting notes, along with a description of each beer from the Rogue menu. Note that not all the ales listed below are on tap at all times.

Juniper Pale Ale

What Rogue says: Saffron in color, with a smooth malt balance and a floral aroma; a dry spicy finish from whole juniper berries.

Our take: Not as spicy as touted, but definitely smooth; dry like the high desert of Eastern Oregon.

Ideal imbiber: A connoisseur. Serve it to a brewer or a beer critic.

Chipotle Ale

What Rogue says: An eye-opening chile flavor in this deep golden ale with a malty, smoky aroma and smooth, crisp flavor.

Our take: Smoky-roasted flavor and aftertaste, as opposed to spicy; way fun; a gourmet beer for a chili cook-off.

Ideal imbiber: A beer drinker who wants to venture off the beaten path.

Kell’s Irish Lager

What Rogue says: Light Irish-style lager made with imported Czech yeast and European specialty malts; mellow flavor with an apple-crisp finish.

Our take: A full-bodied lager, flavorful, excellent finish; tastes more of Eastern Europe than Dublin; a growler should be in every cooler; a great beer.

Ideal imbiber: Everybody in Rogue Nation.

Mocha Porter

What Rogue says: Dark, ruddy brown with a bittersweet balance of malt and hops; a surprising light and refreshing taste.

Our take: More mocha aroma than taste; bittersweet, very smooth, like a hoppy cup of joe; a good breakfast beer.

Ideal imbiber: An everyman’s porter, a workingman’s beer.

Shakespeare Stout

What Rogue says: Earthy flavor and a mellow chocolate finish.

Our take: Thick and dark, smooth like a Guinness, but with way more alcohol; bitter chocolate notes, but not as bitter as many stouts.

Ideal imbiber: A stout wannabe.

Oregon Golden Ale

What Rogue says: Deep gold in color, rich malty aroma, delicately smooth and crisp with an herbal hop finish.

Our take: Zero nose, no kick, very plain and not a lot of fun.

Ideal imbiber: A beer novice looking to graduate from Bud Lite.

Younger’s Special Bitter

What Rogue says: An English-style bitter. Amber in color with a mild hop finish.

Our take: Bitter? Yes, but not overly strong. Drinkable, but not memorable.

Ideal imbiber: Mr. Neutral.

Brutal Bitter

What Rogue says: An Imperial bitter made with exotic, traditional floor malts, creating a citrusy, hoppy flavor and stupendous hop aroma.

Our take: Oh yeah! More bitter than the Younger’s, dry and ultra-hoppy.

Ideal imbiber: Hopheads rejoice; this is your dream brew.

Dead Guy Ale

What Rogue says: In the style of a German maibock; deep honey color with a malty aroma.

Our take: Very drinkable; smooth with a nice finish; one of the ales that made Rogue famous.

Ideal imbiber: This is the beer for your summer beach party; reserve a keg.

Morimoto Imperial Pilsner

What Rogue says: Hop bitterness supported by a big malty backbone which culminates into a hedonistic mouthful.

Our take: Lots of unfinished sweetness. This beer didn’t spend enough time in the cask.

Ideal imbiber: Not us.

Chocolate Stout

What Rogue says: Ebony in color with a rich creamy head. The mellow flavor of oats, chocolate malts and real chocolate are balanced perfectly with the right amount of hops.

Our take: Imagine a candy bar infiltrated by some heady hops – that’s Chocolate Stout. Should be poured over a double scoop of vanilla ice cream (available at the pub).

Ideal imbiber: A chocoholic who craves hops; imaginative bakers might pour a pint or two into their brownie mix.

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103, phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com