Tables full of food ranging from deviled eggs to saucy manicotti and thick cuts of prime rib. Friends hugging while simultaneously sipping Chianti and cheap sparkling wine. The crush of a million revelers crowding New York’s Times Square.

These are a few of my New Year’s Eve memories. Thankfully, the holiday is celebrated with considerably less merriment these days, at least among my crowd.

That’s not to say bringing in the New Year shouldn’t be a joyous occasion, and many restaurants will offer a festive atmosphere and special menus. Here’s a smattering of establishments, by no means comprehensive, that will help you let loose in a responsible manner and bring in the new year with a whoop, a howl and plenty of fine food. All meals are menu-priced, unless otherwise noted. At many restaurants, reservations are required, so be sure to phone ahead for details.

The Ark

273rd Street and Sandridge Road

Nahcotta, Wash.

(360) 665-4133

There’s no more romantic setting than a window table at this picture-perfect restaurant perched on the Willapa Bay shoreline. A chef’s menu for two ($45 per person) will feature incredible edibles such as oysters on the half shell sided with a Bloody Mary sorbet, Dungeness crab California rolls, smoked albacore and beef tenderloin or shellfish enclosed in puff pastry. Selections from the New Year’s Eve menu will include Boston clam chowder, a lobster spring roll, caviar served over sockeye salmon lox, chicken breast stuffed with Swiss chard, goat cheese and kalamata olives and a couple versions of grilled salmon. Any of the legendary Ark desserts will put an exclamation point on the New Year’s festivities.

Baked Alaska

No. 1 12th St., Astoria

(503) 325-7414

and

The Schooner Twelfth Street Bistro

360 12th St., Astoria

(503) 325-7882

Both Baked Alaska, which overlooks the Columbia River, and The Schooner, restaurant of record for the Hotel Elliott, its across-the-street neighbor, are primed for end-of-the-year festivities. Expect a six-course fixed-price ($55 per person) meal at Baked Alaska; wild mushroom turnovers, lobster bisque, huckleberry sorbet, filet mignon, grilled lobster and chocolate goodies will be on the menu.

The Schooner’s Last Call New Year’s Ball will feature a sparkling-wine dinner: pan-seared Idaho rainbow trout, New Zealand rack of lamb, duck doused with apricot brandy sauce, banana wontons and rainbow sorbet will be some of the delectables. Cost will be $65 per person and 1950s big band attire (think Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers) will be required.

Cafe Uniontown

218 W. Marine Drive, Astoria

(503) 325-8708

Two local fave musicians, pianist Chuck Wilder and singer Theda Spracklin, will entertain at this cafe ‘neath the Astoria Bridge. Enjoy their blend of irreverent jazz while dining on Australian lobster tails, or a choice of surf ‘n turf entrees: filet mignon accompanied by a nine-ounce lobster tail; or have sauteed or deep-fried scallops, prawns or oysters with your steak. Party favors and a sparkling wine toast at midnight comes with the price of your meal.

The Depot

1208 38th Place, Seaview, Wash.

(360) 642-7880

It seems fitting that a restaurant occupying a former railway station will offer an across-time-zones New Year’s Eve menu. First course will be an East Coast celebration of baked oysters, an array of cheeses and foie gras. A Thai spinach salad sprinkled with a peanut-cilantro vinaigrette will be the Central Time Zone featured course. Rosemary-smoked quail, Nuevo Latino steak or a lobster brochette paired with caramelized gnocchi can be ordered during the Mountain Time Zone celebration. And the West Coast Time Zone, naturally, will showcase dessert: chocolate creme brulee or banana cream pie. Seating will be at 7:30 p.m., and funky hats, noisemakers and toasts with sparkling wine will be part of the package – $55 per person.

Shoalwater Restaurant

4415 Pacific Highway, Seaview, Wash.

(360) 642-4142

Tucked inside the Shelburne Inn, Washington’s oldest – and arguably prettiest – lodging, the Shoalwater Restaurant boasts this region’s finest wine list. What better time than New Year’s Eve, then, to raid the cellar? Resident sommelier and owner Tony Kischner will do the honors, then pour an assortment of bubblies for his guests – sundry sparkling wines and real-deal Champagnes from the Champagne region of France. Both will be available by the glass or in flights of two-ounce sips. Expect a six-course extravaganza from kitchen diva Lynne “Red” Pelletier – say, salmon gnocchi and lamb osso bucco. But save room for pastry chef (and co-owner) Ann Kischner’s desserts – impossibly rich and decidedly irresistible. Cost will be $48 per person.

Silver Salmon Grille

1105 Commercial St., Astoria

(503) 338-6640

Astoria’s best-loved dessert may be the Silver Salmon’s bananas Foster. This flaming bowl of fruit, ice cream, brown sugar, rum and liqueurs will be on the New Year’s Eve menu, along with Champagne berries Laurie Ann, a pastry-wrapped Asian pear drenched with a cranberry-butterscotch sauce and other sweet treats created by pastry chef Peggy Davis.

Entrees such as a full-pound Australian lobster tail and lamb chops encrusted with Parmesan and herbs (either sided with a baked tater, fruited rice or garlic mashers) will be equally enticing.

T. Paul’s Urban Cafe

1119 Commercial St., Astoria

(503) 338-5133

A two-burner stove. That’s where the culinary wizardry takes place at the Urban, a drop-in-anytime kind of cafe well-regarded for its creative salads, wraps and seafood-pasta plates. So the restaurant’s New Year’s theme, “Magic on a Two-Burner Gas Stove,” makes perfect sense. In addition to the delights of the regular menu, look for penne tossed with sea scallops, prawns and steamers, ravioli stuffed with roasted veggies and wild mushrooms, herb-crusted prime rib and Menage a’ Trois seafood cakes concocted with Dungeness crab, halibut and wild salmon. “Richard T” will strum his acoustic guitar during dinner, which will be served from 4 to 10 p.m.; phone ahead for priority seating.