NAHCOTTA, Wash. – Potentially, it was a no-win proposition when Michael and Cameo Gilson purchased The Ark Restaurant last fall. For years, this was an establishment esteemed throughout the Northwest and beyond for its reverential treatment of seafood, its elegantly quirky atmosphere and its picture-perfect setting on Willapa Bay’s shoreline.

But more than anything, the Ark was renowned for its owners, Nancy Main and Jimella Lucas, both nationally known culinary celebs. During their two decade-plus proprietorship, these dining divas wowed restaurant critics and food writers, including the granddaddy of them all, the late James Beard. The duo also wined and dined a president (Bill Clinton), authored four cookbooks and regularly dazzled adoring patrons, some of whom journeyed from Portland, Seattle or wherever just to experience an Ark repast.

Dinner here surely was as much about Main and Lucas as it was about the food, and when these two weren’t on hand, regulars felt shortchanged.

Heck, when the Gilsons bought the Ark, they weren’t taking over a restaurant; they were assuming a legacy. To say that Main’s and Lucas’ shoes were hard to fill would be an understatement of epic proportions. Presumably, whether the Gilsons rearranged the interior and overhauled the menu or left things exactly the same, at least some customers would pine for the old days.

During the 40-minute drive from Astoria to Nahcotta on our first visit back after “the sale,” we pondered the above, wondering aloud if there could be an Ark without Main and Lucas. Upon arrival, we were surprised initially by how much everything remained the same. All those white lights, for instance, are still twinkling inside and out, lending the appearance of an ocean liner on holiday, although certainly not a luxurious one. But then the Ark was never posh. In a funky-charming kind of way, the restaurant’s decor reflected Main’s effervescent, playfully flamboyant personality. She also presided over the Ark’s bakery and fashioned the restaurant’s breads, pastries and to-die-for desserts.

The kitchen, however, was Lucas’ domain, and these days her former protege Alex Cabalona is in charge. No surprise then, that a guy who honed his skills alongside one of the foremost purveyors of what used to be called Northwest cuisine has hardly altered the Ark’s status quo. Heck, the menu hasn’t changed: Scotch salmon, garlic-ginger scallops, ravioli plump with butternut squash and wild mushrooms and stuffed chicken Madeira are all here, while signature Willapa Bay oysters pan-fried, baked with barbecue sauce, or served raw on the half shell continue as mainstays.

It’s not fair to the Gilsons, a young restaurant-savvy couple who hail from Los Angeles, but throughout our meals we compared past and present. Didn’t the house greens arrive a tad overdressed? Would Lucas have doused the calamari appetizer with a surfeit of Dijonaisse sauce? (No worries, it’s a splendid concoction, not too mustardy and perfect for sopping up with the house rolls.) And, darn it, my slice of sturgeon deglazed with sake seemed smaller than before.

On the other hand, we couldn’t remember the oyster feed counting so many bivalves. Our server said the preparation remains as before – 16 of Willapa Bay’s most succulent specimens breaded with lightly seasoned flour and artfully pan-fried. Anybody who can devour a plate of these saltwater treasures is a better eater than either of us. We brought home a half-dozen in a doggy bag because we wanted to choose from the Ark’s well-regarded dessert tray – a Marionberry-blueberry cobbler served warm with French vanilla ice cream won out over the Swedish cream and bread pudding. But didn’t Main’s rendition feature more crust?

The Gilsons, who owned a dinner house and nightclub in West Hollywood, Calif., and learned about the Ark on the Internet, say customer response so far has been positive. Cameo says her husband and chef Cabalona are integrating specials into the dinner menu, but they want to retain the cherished dishes that have made the Ark popular all these years.

We’re happy to report that the Ark continues as an excellent dinner (and Sunday brunch) destination, and we applaud the new owners’ efforts to preserve what has made the restaurant beloved by so many. But until the Gilsons tweak the lighting, alter the decor, revamp the menu or whatever – until they transform their eatery in some significant ways … well, the ghosts of Main and Lucas and their collective culinary derring-do will continue to permeate the place and beg comparisons with the past.

The Ark Restaurant

Three stars (out of four)

273rd and Sandridge Road, Nahcotta, Wash.

(360) 665-4133

www.ark restaurant.com

Hours: Currently 5 to 9 p.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday; 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday brunch. The restaurant’s schedule will expand in March.

Prices: Expensive. Many entrees (all include a choice of soup or salad) cost more than $20. Dinner for two with wine, desserts and tip could easily crest $100.

Superior selections: Calamari Dijonaisse, Scotch salmon, pretty much anything with oysters, Marionberry-blueberry cobbler, bread pudding.

Atmosphere: Playfully flamboyant, decked with strings of white lights and showcasing lots of wood. Willapa Bay is just out the window.

Service: Knowledgeable and professional. Some servers have worked here for years and know the menu well.

Kid-friendly: The Ark is billed as child-friendly, and a surprising number of families dine here.

Vegetarian options: Usually at least one entree, but phone ahead for special requirements.

Alcohol: Full bar and a carefully chosen, medium-sized wine list that complements the menu. A number of bottles cost $30 or less.

Access: The entrance is accessible to people in wheelchairs; the restrooms would be tricky to get into and out of.

Credit cards: All major cards.

Personal checks: OK.

Reservations: Recommended, especially as the summer season approaches.

Smoking: Not permitted.