LINCOLN CITY – Anybody who believes North Coast traffic has reached its saturation point should drive through this elongated coastal community intersected by U.S. Highway 101. If Lincoln City is any indication, the future looks congested.

Vehicular overcrowding aside, Lincoln City showcases a host of attractions, such as shop-’til-you-drop opportunities at galleries, specialty retailers and the coast’s largest outlet mall, plus seven miles of broad, sandy beach stretching from Road’s End, at the town’s north side, to the peaceful shores of Siletz Bay.

And the town’s restaurant scene is vibrant: A couple of stellar eateries stand out amid the commercial chaos. Laid back Blackfish Cafe (2733 N.W. Highway 101, (541) 996-1007) purveys everything from beer-battered rockfish ‘n chips to a grilled duck breast garnished with Coast Range huckleberries. A restaurant of another sort is Bay House, perhaps the Oregon Coast’s premier upscale dining-out venue.

Richly finished wood and brass, crisp tablecloths and seasoned service personnel garbed in black and white lend a traditional ambience that’s becoming rare these days. With Siletz Bay out the back window and the ocean just beyond, the setting is spectacular. Meals are often backdropped by soaring Great Blue herons and scintillating sunsets.

Bucking the pan-Asian trend, Bay House chef Jesse Otero purveys meals that lean as much toward Europe as the Pacific Rim. Stellar starters include an Italian salami plate ringed with Parmesan crostini, coastal greens tossed with prosciutto and dusted with pecorino Toscano, and a superb rotating lineup of artisan cheeses – a Manchego from Spain, for example, Rogue Valley Creamery Blue or a camembert crafted in New York’s Hudson Valley.

Although he has imprinted the kitchen with well-regarded style and flair (an aura that extends throughout the entire staff, thanks to gracious owner Leslie Dressel), Otero knows regulars (and there are many) might take umbrage if he modified, say, the traditional house soup – a creamy caramelized-onion concoction garnished with Oregon bay shrimp.

Dungeness crab cakes infused with bits of potato and chives sounded enticing, but we opted for the soup du jour, a tomato puree spiked with a heady dose of fennel, followed by splendid mixed-greens salads dressed with a balsamic-roasted shallot vinaigrette.

Selecting entrees proved more challenging, what with garlic-studded Oregon rack of lamb, troll-caught chinook crusted with mustard and sesame seeds, venison braised in red wine, halibut Parmesan awash in lemon and watercress, and a seldom seen salad Nicoise, with Dungeness crab standing in for tuna. Featured sides included portobella risotto, mustard spaetzle, a tomato-olive tart and sundried-tomato mashed spuds … oh, what choices!

Same with the exemplary wine list, which has garnered a Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence,” an accolade limited to only a few hundred restaurants nationally. Not at all haughty like some sommeliers, our wine steward (who doubled as our server) gently volunteered advice and suggestions beyond the typical claims that a given wine would taste wonderful. After perusing the extensive list, we selected a Bookwalter (Wash.) red blend for $28; the best bargains were bottles that cost more than $35.

Food here also comes dear. The menu is a la carte, and all but one entree fetches more than $20 (even the salad Nicoise goes for $25.50); a few crest $30, virgin territory for most coastal eateries. For most diners, Bay House would be reserved for special occasion meals. Including wine, dinner and tip, two could easily spend more than $100.

My dining companion and I deemed the cuisine worth the steep tariff. She opted for silken duck breast bathed in a not-too-nectarean pomegranate sauce. A risotto cake stuffed with duck confit was served alongside. Her first duck at any restaurant that wasn’t dry and overcooked, she remarked. I sampled some of that same sauce (and pronounced it irresistible) using the oven-baked baby red potatoes paired with my medium rare hanger steak, a cut of beef generally associated with bistros rather than upscale dinner houses. Why don’t more restaurants purvey this inexpensive cut of beef? I wondered while savoring each fork-tender bite.

Ethereal ginger creme brulee topped with fresh raspberries remains a Bay House dessert standby; nonetheless, we agreed on a strawberry-almond torte garnished with both chantilly cream and creme anglaise. Calorie counters beware, this cake possesses serious oomph. Otero also has supplemented his dessert tray with artery-blocking lemon curd cheesecake, tiramisu and coffee-Kahlua ice cream, among other flavors. New this year at Bay House is Sunday brunch, affording everything from huckleberry pancakes to pan-fried trout picatta.

More than a decade ago, the Oregon Coast’s current restaurant renaissance began right here in Lincoln City. Bay House was the premier player in those early days and has evolved and prospered while other eateries have opened and closed. Presently in its finest incarnation, the restaurant continues to dazzle, just like those daily dusk Siletz Bay sunsets.

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. box 210, Astoria, OR 97103 or phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com

Bay House

Four stars (out of four)

5911 S.W. Highway 101

(south end of town), Lincoln City

(541) 996-3222

www.bayhouserestaurant.com

Hours: Dinner begins at 5:30 p.m. Sunday through Friday, 5 p.m. Saturday; Sunday brunch, 10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Prices: Expensive. Starters and salads cost $4.50 to $14, entrees $18.50 to $34.50, desserts $6. Two people could easily spend $100 or more for dinner, dessert, wine and tip.

Superior selections: Caramelized onion soup, Piedmontese hanger steak, roasted duck with duck confit risotto cake, mustard- and sesame-crusted troll-caught chinook, coffee-Kahlua ice cream, ginger creme brulee, strawberry-almond torte.

Atmosphere: Richly finished wood and brass and crisp tablecloths amid a refined (and gorgeous) dinner house setting.

Service: Impeccable.

Kid-friendly: Children are welcome; the restaurant and menu may be too formal for some youngsters.

Vegetarian options: None on the current menu. Phone beforehand with dietary restrictions.

Alcohol: Full bar and an exceptional wine list.

Access: The restaurant and restrooms are accessible to those in wheelchairs.

Credit cards: All major cards.

Personal checks: OK.

Reservations: Recommended.

Smoking: Not permitted.