Must be those 70-degree days, because summer is a time when some readers get hot under the collar.

No shark fins at Silver DragonSuch as Susan, who admonished me for mentioning shark’s-fin soup in my review of Seaside’s Silver Dragon (Coast Weekend, June 5). Now the Silver Dragon doesn’t serve shark’s-fin soup, mind you. But Susan “cringed” at my reference to it.

“Shame on you Richard for promoting a ridiculous gourmet oddity at the expense of these ancient and magnificent creatures of the sea. Are you aware that the fishermen just cut off the fin and throw the shark back to suffer and die a slow, painful death? Guess not. Or worse, you don’t care. Either way, consider me a fan no longer.”

Comment: No, I did not realize how the fins are harvested (I replied to Susan in an e-mail). I mentioned shark’s-fin soup only as an example of “authentic” Chinese cuisine, evidently a poor choice. Thanks for setting me straight.

In a subsequent e-mail Susan responded: “Thanks for your reply. All is forgiven then.” Susan also mentioned the mushroom soup at Gearhart’s Pacific Way Bakery & Cafe, “Hands down the best soup we ever tasted,” she said.

John, a Seasider, apparently wasn’t as forgiving as Susan. “What’s gotten into you? Has all that chai tea you favor watered down your brain?” he asked in a letter about the same Silver Dragon review.

“We’ve dined at the Silver Dragon four times now and have not found the food lightly seasoned or bland. Our Kung Pao beef was hot and spicy and so were other preparations. Service was fast and efficient. And so what if the waitresses say good things about the food? Wouldn’t you if you worked there? I think you’re getting too critical in your old age.”

Comment: We enjoyed our Kung Pao beef, too. I mentioned that this well-seasoned preparation “almost made our eyes water.” And yes, I’m skeptical of servers who claim everything on the menu is wonderful. By the way, you’re not the only one who says I’m becoming too critical (and looking older).

Contention over stars at The DepotHere we go again with The Depot in Seaview, Wash., a restaurant I’ve awarded four stars (Coast Weekend, Aug. 8, 2002) and more recently, under new ownership, three and one-half stars (Coast Weekend, May 1). I’ve taken heat for both reviews, lately from Stan of Ilwaco, Wash., who said “no way does the atmosphere or service deserve such a high rating.” Another reader (who wishes to remain anonymous) from Astoria called the burgers “blah, overdone and not that sumptuous,” but the oysters and salad “delish.”

Comment: I ate at The Depot two weeks ago with three others. We shared an appetizer, then ordered four entrees and finished with two desserts. Everything was top-notch, including a pleasantly sweet pulled-pork dinner special. I stand by my rating.

Fulio’s dominates mailbagFulio’s, the Italian-inspired eatery in Astoria that opened last May (Coast Weekend, June 26), has readers pumped one way or the other.

Lynne, from Astoria, didn’t approve. “Very disappointing to say the least,” she e-mailed. “You’d think there would be at least ONE traditional Italian dish on the menu! Like maybe veal Parmesan … or “LASAGNA” … no meat dishes at all … not even a Tira Mi Su for dessert.

David, a Seaview, Wash. resident, had a different take. He termed the sauces “very tasty,” and said “the next step is for (chef and owner) Peter Roscoe to start making his own pasta.”

Colleen, from Astoria, gushed about Roscoe’s seared Caesar salad, calling it “outstanding … the best around.”

An Astoria correspondent (who wishes to remain anonymous) pronounced the meatball sandwich “yummy,” but the sauce “of paste consistency.” Soups, she liked. She and a couple of companions were “contented” with their dinner for three, she disclosed in another letter. A prolific diner, she also rated the fare at Astoria’s Sunday Market (Coast Weekend, July 3) as follows:

grilled oysters – juicy ‘n fresh

pulled-pork sandwich, Cajun-style – bonbon!

Asian – so-so

Jerkies – good flavors!

Peach iced tea: ahhh, quenching!

Comment: Fulio’s has elicited more remarks and correspondence than any new Astoria restaurant in memory. Most say they like the place. I’m an unabashed fan of Sunday Market. In my opinion, locals keep returning Sunday after Sunday to meet with friends and acquaintances (the market is the place to be on Sunday afternoons in Astoria) and to sample the low-priced street fare at the food court.

Dundee’s is reader recommendedBill, from Seaside, recommended Dundee’s Bar & Grill, also in Seaside. “The owners are always cooking,” he said. “You should give the place a try.”

Comment: Yes, I should (and will). I’m told Dundee’s hosts quality live music, too.

Pauly’s Bistro ups the ante on the peninsulaBlaine Walker, co-owner (with his wife Cheri) of the 42nd Street Cafe in Seaview, Wash. and a frequent correspondent, had this to say about Pauly’s Bistro in Ilwaco, Wash.,(Coast Weekend, June 19), one of the Long Beach Peninsula’s newer dining establishments and already well-regarded.

“They (Pauly’s) provide another great addition to the peninsula dining scene, as well as some needed stiff competition. Their addition has me thinking again that the Long Beach Peninsula may have more good restaurants per capita than any other place around. Astoria is opening restaurants like mad, but there really isn’t anything there that can’t be beat here except for maybe the coffeehouse/lunch scene (and fish & chips!). And a good controversy is good for business, heh? Happy writing!

Comment: A decade ago, I would have agreed that, restaurant-wise, the Long Beach Peninsula had it over Astoria. No more. There’s an incredible variety of eats to be enjoyed on this side of the Columbia River, everything from quality street food to four-star dinners. But I do concur that the peninsula has more good restaurants, per capita, than any place around.

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103 or phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com