Breakfast can be a paradox. What nutritionists contend is the day’s most important meal is generally also the least creative.

Restaurants serve eggs, pancakes, French toast, waffles, cereal, the increasingly ubiquitous breakfast burrito and a couple handfuls of side dishes. And, well, that’s about it. Sure there are enticing variations of the above – an unorthodox omelet, say, or oysters and eggs – but precious few eateries deviate from the traditional breakfast theme.

Some restaurants are worth patronizing not only because they offer tasty morning repasts. A few push the envelope of what breakfast might be. North to south, here’s a look at some favored breakfast haunts that serve dishes ranging from caramelized apple-cinnamon crepes to chive-encrusted salmon.

The Shelburne Inn4415 Pacific Highway S.

(800) 466-1896

Do you know the Shelburne is said to be Washington’s oldest continuously operating inn? Furthermore, do you realize that innkeepers Laurie Anderson and David Campiche purvey the Long Beach Peninsula’s most sumptuous and imaginative breakfasts? All fine and good if you happen to be spending the night in one of the Shelburne’s 15 cozy antique-laden rooms (or at nearby China Beach Retreat, which Anderson and Campiche also own).

But wait – the public is now invited to join the inn’s guests for breakfast. There are always at least four or five choices (which change daily) listed on the chalkboard in the Shelburne’s dining room, where the welcoming ambiance is surpassed only by the exquisite morning fare.

A shrimp souffle roll oozing ricotta, smoked-salmon or smoked-chicken frittatas, a warming bowl of huckleberry-apple oatmeal, even in-season grilled smelt, are some of the possibilities. Petite Willapa Bay oysters and wild mushrooms often make appearances in Campiche’s superb breakfasts. And Anderson’s fresh-baked goodies – treats as varied as zucchini muffins and banana-nut bread – grace every meal, served at a massive rectangular oak table. Cost is $11.95 and reservations are required.

Columbian Cafe1114 Marine Drive, Astoria

(503) 325-2233

Basic it may be, but rice and vegetables ($6) is a tempting and nutritious alternative to bacon and eggs. At this diminutive eatery with the distinctive red-and-white awning, you can feast on a steaming platefuls of brown rice mixed with red, green and orange veggies, all of them crunchy after a short spate on the griddle. Grilled and buttered sourdough is part of the deal, and cheese, tofu and eggs are options. Be sure to partake of owner Uriah Hulsey’s jellies or, if your taste buds are feeling frisky, a couple spoonfuls of his enthusiastic salsa.

Sunny Side of the Cannery CafeOne Sixth St., Astoria

(503) 325-8642

Dare to be different and order Chive-encrusted Salmon ($10.50) for breakfast. At the Sunny Side, your filet will be coated with crispy panko, enlivened with chives, then baked and served atop a hefty patty of browned mashed potatoes. Accompanying buttermilk biscuits arrive with honey, butter, strawberry-ginger preserves and a luscious, not-too-tart lemon curd. “I only wanted to do breakfasts if we could do something homemade and creative,” says Cannery owner Dana Gunderson. Exactly, and that’s a paramount reason to eat out in the morning.

Pig’N Pancake146 W. Bond St., Astoria, (503) 325-3144

323 Broadway, Seaside, (503) 738-7243

223 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, (503) 436-2851

Everybody from dawn-patrol fisher folk to business types brokering big deals hangs at the Pig. And no wonder, what with 35 breakfast variations on the menu, including all the usuals. However, I don’t know many other area restaurants that offer potato pancakes ($7.25). Here they’re thin and crispy griddled beauties – kind of like a super-sized order of circular-shaped hash browns – sided with applesauce and a couple rashers of bacon.

Dog Water Cafe1111 N. Roosevelt Drive (in the Factory Outlet Center), Seaside

(503) 738-0180

Not your typical food-court restaurant, the Dog Water occupies a roomy, eye-pleasing space inside Seaside’s outlet mall. It’s a gem of an establishment, really, and serves artfully prepared breakfasts garnished with fresh fruit. The Potato Deluxe ($5.50), for example, is a platter of seasoned grilled potatoes mixed with multi-colored peppers, onions and bits of bacon, then topped with melted cheddar and mozzarella. A couple slices of thick white toast or a biscuit is served alongside. Egg add-ons (cooked any style) cost $.75 each. For early-bird diners hopelessly hooked on hash browns, this appetizing plate of spuds is a must-try.

Cafe Mango1235 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach

(503) 436-2393

A tropical theme prevails at this homey restaurant, and not because the place resembles some thatched-roof, south-seas hideaway. Rather, slices of mango, kiwi and other fresh fruits are served with every meal. The stand-out preparations are savory crepes crafted with organic buckwheat flour and filled with everything from chicken-apple sausage to smoked salmon ($6.95 to $8.95). Double your pleasure with a dessert crepe fashioned from organic white flour, then folded with enticing fruits, nuts and chocolate, dollops of yogurt, even mango sauce ($1.75 to $3.75).

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103 or phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@ dailyastorian.com

More extraordinary breakfastsCorned beef hash was one of my breakfast staples while growing up in New Jersey. An even better version is Meat Loaf Hash blended with chopped potatoes, onions, tomatoes and green peppers, then crowned with two eggs and gravy ($5.95 at Tide Point Restaurant, 1820 S.E. Front St., Astoria; (503) 325-1981). Morning sweet tooths will revel in the enormous Get Baked Alaskan Cinnamon Roll ($5 at Baked Alaska, 1 12th St., Astoria; (503) 325-7414). Other breaks from typical morning fare include gingerbread pancakes and a quirky take on a Tex-Mex standby, Grateful Huevos – scrambled eggs, chilies and cheese wrapped in a corn tortilla (both $5.95 at Grateful Bread Bakery, 34805 Brooten Road, Pacific City; (503) 965-7337).