Richard Fencsak, the Mouth of the Columbia, awards the 2003 Munchies to exceptional area restaurantsWhich new Mexican restaurant do you like better? When’s the Thai place going to open? What’s the scoop on (pick one): The Chinese buffet out in Warrenton? the two new eateries at the Port of Ilwaco, Wash.? Cannon Beach’s latest pub? The pizza joint in Long Beach?

The buzz all year throughout the Columbia-Pacific region has been about new restaurants. More opened in 2002 than in any 12 – or even 24 or 36 – months in recent memory. Much of the action was in Astoria, lately becoming redefined as a restaurant mecca. But even at the region’s fringes – tiny Wheeler, for example – novel eateries sparked interest.

This year’s Munchies awards are dedicated to the restaurant of the year followed by the best of the new restaurants, and 15 still-outstanding establishments.

Restaurant of the yearMoby Dick Hotel and Oyster Farm, 25814 Sandridge Road, Nahcotta, Wash.; (360) 665-4543Don’t tell Jeff McMahon that life on the Long Beach Peninsula is unexciting. Well, maybe by New York or Portland standards, where the 30-something chef worked in well-regarded restaurants, most recently at Saucebox, Portland’s uber outpost of pan-Asian cuisine. Now he oversees an essentially one-man operation at Nahcotta’s Moby Dick, a pleasantly funky combination of a rambling hotel and a laid-back eatery.

Freshness is a McMahon obsession, and the variety of his weekly menus seems limited only by what land and sea can provide. A front yard organic garden furnishes produce that he picks minutes prior to preparation; oysters are harvested in Willapa Bay, just out back. Curried potato soup, mushroom risotto cakes, orange, avocado and watercress salad tossed in a sherry vinaigrette, Turkish-style chicken doused in a yogurt-lemon sauce, spaghetti with oysters and pancetta, strawberry-rhubarb cobbler, pistachio cake bedecked with honey tangerines, black currant and cherry-bourbon ice creams – the list goes on, and the fruits of McMahon’s labors are nothing short of scintillating.

The Upstarts:Best new restaurants of 2002

Cafe Mango,1235 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach; (503) 436-2393The omelets, oat-buttermilk pancakes and buffalo burgers are splendid, but what sets this year-old cafe apart is a lineup of savory crepes crafted from organic buckwheat flour and filled with everything from Black Forest ham to smoked salmon. Dessert crepes fashioned with organic white flour, then folded with fruits, nuts, chocolate and dollops of yogurt, are fine anytime.

Orpheus Coffee & Tea House, 495 Nehalem Blvd. (corner of Gregory Street and U.S. Highway 101), Wheeler; (503) 368-6873The laid-back coffeehouse scene is gone, you say, replaced by more frenetic espresso parlors overseen by barristas hawking hazelnut lattes to patrons glued to their cell phones. True enough, unless you step inside this retro hangout. Furthermore, instead of bland brown rice, raw tofu and such, the food served here – say, eggplant lasagna, vegetable curry, apple-ginger pie and Tillamook County’s tastiest cinnamon rolls – is exemplary.

The Canoe Room, 161 Howerton Ave. (at the Port of Ilwaco), Ilwaco, Wash.; (360) 642-4899Owner Rebecca Fontana continues to wow customers at her harbor-level establishment that first opened for lunch in June 2001, then gained momentum as an upscale dining destination during the past 12 months. Savory sandwiches such as a chicken-basil sausage hoagie first earned the Canoe Room kudos; pan-seared scallops, roasted vegetable lasagna and gorgonzola linguini continue to draw raves.

Warren House Pub, 3301 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach; (503) 436-1130A British-style pub in Cannon Beach? Believe it, thanks to owners Jim Oyala and Ken Campbell, who transformed a former historic home into a haven for adventuresome diners. Ahi coated in yogurt and wasabi, smoked lamb pita pockets, pork ribs glazed with a citrusy barbecue sauce and a carnivore’s dream burger blended with top sirloin and bacon are some of the options. Craft beers from Bill’s Tavern & Brewhouse are on tap.

The Mainstays:Year after year, these 15 restaurants, arranged alphabetically, are as outstanding as ever.

Ambrosia, 210 S. Holladay Drive, Seaside; (503) 738-7199This nondescript former bank building has been transformed into a chi-chi hangout decorated with bold splashes of color. The food is a post-fusion potpourri of Pacific Rim and Mediterranean flavors: focaccia primavera, penne tossed with salmon and capers, Asian pears trimmed with greens and a lobster-sea bass seafood stew. Upwards of 75 different wines are available, and what used to be the bank vault now houses a must-visit lounge painted with beach scenes.

Blue Sky Cafe, 154 Laneda Ave., Manzanita; (503) 368-5712Recipes are as wild as winter sou’westers at this low-slung cafe that many consider unsurpassed on the Oregon coast. Surf ‘n turf might mean baked salmon sided with butternut squash polenta and grilled filet mignon paired with mascarpone mashed potatoes. Chickpea cakes (with cilantro-coconut chutney), curry-marinated ribs and sweet potato-pecan pie embellished with bourbon creme anglaise are some of the seasonal options.

Cafe Uniontown, 218 W. Marine Drive, Astoria; (503) 325-8708Look for all-American food with a Northwest spin at this traditional dinner house that dates to the 1930s (when it was called Snug Harbor). Prime rib, a mushroom strudel appetizer, grilled filet mignon, salmon and fowl and a lusty cioppino are some of the favorites, and lobster is often on the menu. The Uniontown is also this region’s first choice for live music.

Cannery Cafe, No. 1 Sixth St., Astoria; (503) 325-8642The setting is just right at this century-old former cannery perched on pilings over the Columbia River. Savor the view over a bowl of soothing clam chowder or a robust Main Channel meatloaf sandwich. Sauteed lime prawns, crab and shrimp cakes, a blackened ribeye and pasta specials are favored evening repasts.

Columbian Cafe, 1114 Marine Drive, Astoria; (503) 325-2233Any discussion of Astoria’s restaurant roots has to include this diminutive cafe with the distinctive red-and-white facade. Breakfast and lunch are fine opportunities for fruit parfaits, crepes and veggie stir-frys, and night time crowds still gather for chef Uriah Hulsey’s renowned seafood pasta dinners and his Chef’s Mercy, a surprise melange of the day’s foremost fixings.

Corpeny’s, 2281 Beach Drive, Seaside; (503) 738-7353Seaside’s choicest breakfast and lunch fare can be had at this delightful corner cafe outfitted with a rock fireplace and porcelain tile floors. Gargantuan omelets are concocted with four eggs, and sandwiches feature top-drawer meats and crunchy-fresh veggies stuffed between slices of chewy peasant bread. French apple tarts, coffee cake and berry scones and muffins are yummy snacks.

42nd Street Cafe, 4201 Pacific Highway, Seaview, Wash.; (360) 642-2323Inside her homey eatery that once served as a U.S. Coast Guard barracks, chef Cheri Walker cooks an array of comforting dinners (skillet-fried chicken with mashed potatoes, for instance) as well as more daring dishes – sweet pepper ravioli packed with roasted veggies and three cheeses, pork chops dripping cranberry barbecue sauce and other enticing delights.

Home Spirit Bakery Cafe, 1585 Exchange St., Astoria; (503) 325-6846Head to this 1892 restored Victorian for crusty artisan breads (Columbia Sourdough is this region’s finest loaf) sumptuous soups, croissant sandwiches and otherworldly desserts (key lime pie, fruit and wine sorbets), then return Thursday, Friday or Saturday evenings to feast on internationally inspired prix-fixe dinners.

Lil’ Bayou, 20 N. Holladay Drive, Seaside; (503) 717-0624Alligator and pork- or crawfish-filled boudin (sausage) were added to the menu last year at this storefront bastion of Cajun-Creole cuisine, joining ever-popular preparations such as jambalaya, mague choux, muffuletta sandwiches and pan-blackened catfish.

Pacific Way Bakery & Cafe, 601 Pacific Way, Gearhart; (503) 738-0245This 15-year-old corner establishment was one of the Oregon coast’s first urban-style cafes and continues to purvey stellar sandwiches, zippy seafood stew and apple and brandy-infused chicken breast, among other selections, in a chic and airy interior. Lisa Allen’s baked goods (including a fabulous French loaf) are not to be missed, and pizzas border on breathtaking (the tomato-basil pie is perfect).

Sanctuary Restaurant, U.S. Highway 101 and Hazel Street, Chinook, Wash.; (360) 777-8380It’s not disrespectful to joke, laugh and imbibe while dining among religious statues and saintly images in this former Methodist church. The food tends toward Scandinavian favorites – Swedish meatballs, Swedish pancakes paired with pea soup, even Scandi sushi – along with a more mainstream rack of lamb and Willapa Bay oysters breaded with cracker meal. For desert, lemon sherbet is positively ethereal.

Shoalwater Restaurant, 4415 Pacific Highway, Seaview, Wash.; (360) 642-4142Gracious hosts Ann and Tony Kischner continue to set the standard for fine-dining throughout the Columbia-Pacific region at their welcoming wood-paneled restaurant inside the Shelburne Inn. Chef Lynne Pelletier affords reverential treatment to the Northwest’s gastronomic bounty and occasionally takes diners into uncharted territory with masterpieces such as “pheduckich,” a three-bird roast crafted with pheasant, duck and ostrich. The wine list is superb.

The Ark, 273rd Street and Sandridge Road, Nahcotta, Wash.; (360) 665-4133More than two decades ago, Nanci Main and Jimella Lucas, the Columbia-Pacific region’s first ladies of food, turned a ramshackle comfort-food joint with a picture-postcard setting into a shrine to Northwest cuisine. The accolades that followed are still apro`os, because preparations (ranging from grilled Thai oysters to veal medallions mated with cumin potato cakes) are extraordinary, and the on-site Ark bakery is a treasure trove of treats.

The Bistro, 263 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach; (503) 436-2661Unpretentious seafood entrees (grilled halibut garnished with avocado salsa), premier pasta plates (pansotti: ravioli-like triangles stuffed with spinach, cheese and chard) and understated beef dishes (port-flavored steak piled with portabellos) take center stage at this charming eatery tucked into a row of shops. Locals often sip wine by the glass in the pint-sized bar while savoring Swedish creme capped with berry compote.

The Depot, Corner of 38th Street and L Place, Seaview, Wash.; (360) 642-7880Thai tuna tartare, halibut piccata, steak frittes, sturgeon tacos and a portabello stuffed with curried couscous … a mishmash of culinary influences permeates this refreshingly modest former train station boasting an infectious fun factor. Nectarine-wine sorbet, persimmon pudding, chevre ice cream and an impossibly moist chocolate gateau are but a few of the standout desserts.