CANNON BEACH – Tell folks you’re dining out in Cannon Beach, and theyconjure images of upscale restaurants nestled amid galleries, gift shops and boutiques.

Down the road a piece in laid-back Tolovana Park, is a bedroom community dotted with lodgings but encumbered by only a few commercial amenities. It’s consequently less crowded than its neighbor to the north and a few eateries offer meals worth searching out. Here’s a peek at two of them.

Surfcrest Cafe, 3140 S. Hemlock St., Tolovana Park; (503) 436-1139; 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 7 a.m. to midnight Friday, Saturday (closing times may vary)

More than one sit-down eatery has thrived inside a neighborhood grocery store, even though such a location seems like a throwback these days. Heck, neighborhood groceries, establishment where customers come to gather as much as shop, are near extinction. Yet this tiny Tolovana market with a cafe shoehorned into it remains a mainstay.

Humble instead of highfalutin’ and homey rather than flamboyant, the cute cafe is a getaway far removed from downtown Cannon Beach’s tony shops and galleries. Once inside, you feel as if you’ve time-warped into the 1950s, save for the contemporary packaged goods and an array of videos.

A platter of biscuits doused with sausage gravy is hardly a fancy meal. It’s on the Surfcrest menu and, not surprisingly, breakfast is a staple here. The lineup includes buttermilk pancakes, a handful of omelets, French toast and a burrito rolled with scrambled eggs, sausage, onions, green peppers and potatoes. Most nourishing of all might be an appetizing mishmash of sauteed red potatoes and assorted veggies topped with melted cheddar and crowned with two eggs.

Naturally, burgers and sandwiches ($3.50 to $6.95) hold center stage at lunch and dinner times. Burgers are built with 1/3-pound patties augmented by bacon, pastrami, mushrooms, cheeses and other trimmings. Accompanying house fries are hard to resist.

Sandwiches run the gamut from BLTs to a curious but convincing sourdough Philly layered with sauteed beef, onions, green peppers and melted Swiss. Even the bargain-basement grilled cheese ($3.50) is substantial and satisfying, especially as a beach snack. Cod fish and chips, various pizzas, cheese bread and a carved-out tomato brimming with tuna salad round out the menu.

Warren House Pub, 3301 S. Hemlock St., Tolovana Park; (503) 436-1130; 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday, Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday; 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday; 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

It’s still summer, but the night air is unseasonably cool, almost like November, as I cautiously maneuver my vehicle south through the Cannon Beach curves into Tolovana. Dense fog and heavy mist have all but obliterated the full moon, and I feel like I’m driving underwater. Certainly I’m not lost – I’ve traveled this stretch hundreds of times before – but I’m not sure where to head, or even if I want to stop.

Then I spot the soft lights warmly illuminating the Warren House Pub. I park, walk to the entrance and ponder the possibilities. Laughter and good cheer emanate from within. Folks are having fun, and they’re not shy about showing it. Stay or go; either way it’s one of those momentary decisions that may make or break an evening.

Once inside this six-month-old pub, I know I’ve made the right choice. Nobody eyes me skeptically as an intruder, and a friendly waitress is there to answer questions in a flash. Handsome woodwork graces walls hung with historic photos. There’s an open-beam ceiling, oak floors and a massive river-rock fireplace dominating one end of the narrow dining area. In back is a bar with a pool table.

The menu extends beyond typical pub grub to a pulled-pork sandwich, smoked-prawn fettuccine and a cheese, meat and melon appetizer. After a lengthy perusal, I decide on a pita pocket stuffed with smoked-lamb, wild mushrooms, olives, romas and red onion rings. Called “Greek Meats West,” the sandwich is festooned with a supremely smooth feta and caper sauce. A side salad tossed with peas, sliced water chestnuts, chunks of blue cheese and bits of red onion sounds so offbeat I have to try it, and I’m not disappointed.

My gustable sandwich is packed with tender lamb that’s smoked out back, service is on target (one waitress ably accommodates the room full of patrons), and prices are moderate ($8.50 for my sandwich). In addition to a decent wine list, the Warren House pours ales brewed at Bill’s Tavern & Brewhouse downtown (both establishments are owned by Cannon Beachers Ken Campbell and Jim Oyala). I’m only sorry the desserts are sold out.

Next visit (and I will come back) I’ll sample the Manhattan clam chowder or order the smoked pork ribs served atop a mound of garlic mashed potatoes. Then again, maybe I’ll return Saturday or Sunday for a breakfast of three eggs scrambled with peppered bacon and smoked Willapa oysters. I just hope there’s a slice remaining of Chocolate Seduction Cake.

Contact the Mouth at The Daily Astorian, P.O. Box 210, Astoria, OR 97103 or phone (503) 325-3211 or e-mail mouth@dailyastorian.com

TidbitsNAHCOTTA, Wash. -Rice, tea and sake, that renowned trio of Japanese culinary life, will be featured at the Moby Dick Hotel and Oyster Farm’s annual Sake Dinner, scheduled for Saturday evening, Oct. 12. Chef Jeff McMahon’s menu will showcase corn and miso soup, a sashimi plate, grilled quail, braised ginger beef, shrimp dumplings and different rice preparations, among other choices. Green tea ice cream garnished with candied chestnuts and a red bean sauce will be served for dessert. Beginning at 6 p.m., sake and oysters will be offered in the hotel’s foyer. Cost is $60 per person, and reservations are required. Call (360) 665-4543, or reserve online at mobydickhotel@willapabay.org